Although maintaining its allure to the wealthy, it is now also possible to do Biarritz on a budget, taking advantage of the fundamentals of near-guaranteed hot and dry weather from June to September, some of Europe's best beaches, an extensive choice of restaurants, superb transport links and an impressive calender of events. The holiday-maker is able to choose a level of expenditure somewhere in-between the bare minimum and unregulated extravagance.

Transport links

If you're thinking of travelling to Biarritz, your transport options should be a serious consideration. Should you go by channel-ferry, the drive down from the north of France is not going to be any less than 10 hours. Alternatively, the 24-hour Portsmouth to Bilbao ferry is a popular option though at a significant price. Meanwhile, Bilbao to Biarritz by car is around 2 hours.

If you're looking to fly, it is strongly advised that you book well in advance. Ryanair flights operate daily from both Stansted and Dublin. Taxis from the airport into the centre of town should cost no more than 15 euros.

If you wish to rely on public transport, you will be glad to know that the excellent TGV service runs regularly from Paris to Biarritz. The train station is a short bus ride away from the town centre. The local bus operator is named STAB and if you take the time to familiarise yourself with the bus network and pay close attention to Dimanche (Sunday) and Jours fériés (bank holiday) timetables, taking a bus could save you money and show you a bit of the local area. A single will set you back 1.20 euros, five trips will cost 4.75 euros and 10 trips will still be the reasonable sum of 9.50 euros.

Sights

Biarritz is not expansive, but a trip on the 'Petit Train' is a pleasant way to spend an hour if you're a first-timer. Typically not travelling any faster than your average OAP, this guided tour enables you to really appreciate the visual delights of Biarritz. The train departs from the Grande Plage to the Côte des Basques via the Port des Pêcheurs and the town centre approximately every 40 minutes everyday.

Biarritz is one of the leading exponents in the sea water spa treatment termed thalassotherapy. The premise of thalassotherapy lies on the holistic health benefits of salt water. Even French rugby hard man Serge Betsen is known to be a firm advocate of it's health restorative properties. Biarritz houses a number of highly-reputed spa establishments which should be taken advantage of if you are in need of a little pampering.

Sports

Surfing at Biarritz is of a world-class standard, and the town has a strong surfing culture. The main event comes every July with the Biarritz Surf Festival, when hopefuls from all over the world assemble to compete for the ultimate prize.

However, rugby union is also extremely popular, with the local club, Biarritz Olympique (BO), playing just out of town at La Stade Aguilera. BO are one of France’s top teams and compete against the best of Britain in the Heineken Cup. If rugby is the reason for your visit, a great place to while away the hours disputing rugby matters is the Red Café, on Avenue Foch.

For more traditional sports though, Basque pelota may be worth a look. Pelota is the national sport of ''Payes Basque'' and can be compared to Lacrosse. The main pelota arena is adjacent to La Stade Aguilera and plays host to local and international competitions throughout the year. Look out for flyers around the town advertising matches.

Unusual traditional decorations for the Christmas tree are also widely available, as are all sorts of local crafts, often very reasonably priced. Father Christmas is much in evidence in the markets and if you are lucky enough to be in Arras on Dec 6th each year (St Nicholas day), you will see him descend the face of the town hall before distributing sweets to the children.

One of the biggest and oldest Christmas markets in France is in Strasbourg, held in front of the Cathedral of Notre Dame. As well as being able to buy all sorts of Alsatian specialities, there is also a giant tree and open air ice rink. If you would rather spectate than skate, you might like to warm yourself up with a glass or two of mulled wine, accompanied by traditional spiced biscuits.  

Lyon hosts not only the Christmas market, but also the famous Festival of Light held annually for the four days around Dec 8th. The main sites and monuments in the city are floodlit and the residents place little candle lamps in their windows. Thousands flock to the festival, so if you are looking for spectacular lights on a smaller scale, you might like to visit the beautifully illuminated twelfth-century Vaucelles Abbey near Cambrai in the Pas de Calais.

Whether you want the fairground rides in Calais, the big wheel in Lille or the traditional carol singers in Mulhouse, there is something for everyone in addition to some really different shopping opportunities.  Many owners of properties on the Rentals France website are quite happy to rent for less than a full week at this time of year. Alternatively, the markets in Calais or Lille are both ideal for day trips.  

The Purnells went to look at a selection of houses in July 2006 and came across the ''Moulin de l’Homont'', in the Bresse region of Southern Burgundy, having first been attracted by the photographs which they had seen. With the property living up to their expectations, they made an offer on their first viewing and embarked on the purchase process, which according to Trish was “not without its hurdles”. Four months later the mill was theirs.

The oldest part of the mill is around 200 years old although the previous owner, a Swiss engineer, responsible for its renovation eight years earlier, had added two bedrooms and a sitting room. The miller himself used to live in a cottage next to the mill, which was renovated and extended some fifteen years ago.

The tranquil setting of the mill means that it is a haven for wildlife; some of Trish’s guests have even seen wild boar. The ever-present sound of running water adds to the tranquil atmosphere, ideal for Trish’s two sons who are both living and working in London. With a west-facing balcony, sunsets can be spectacular.

With the hard work of the renovation project having been done already, Trish and her sons have thoroughly enjoyed setting up their new home, taking some items out from the UK but also having fun purchasing furniture in France and meeting interesting people along the way.  The mill has been well used in the last ten months and the Purnells intend going there as often as they can, either as a family or with friends.

The Bresse region has the best of both worlds: on one side, the Burgundy vineyards and on the other, the Jura mountains with their beautiful lakes, waterfalls and scenery. The cities of Lyon and Dijon provide plenty of sight seeing opportunities or if you don’t want to stray too far, the lovely towns of Tournus, Cluny, Beaune and Chalons sur Saone are well worth exploring. If, on the other hand, you prefer just to chill on your holiday and enjoy great food and wine, then this is an ideal location for doing just that.

If you are interested in renting the  Moulin de l’Homont, more information and photographs are available on the Rentals France website.

Even in the south of France you can have the odd wet day, so how do you keep the family amused?

Pack a rainy day holdall with jigsaws, board games, books, colouring books and crayons, play-dough and other craft stuff. Alternatively take a few simple recipes and have a baking afternoon. You can spin out the time this takes if you include a shopping trip for all the ingredients! Collect leaflets, fliers, entrance tickets etc and make a collage or keep a scrap book.

Before you go on holiday spend time on the internet looking up details of the local swimming pool, ice-rink and bowling alley so that you have all the necessary information at your finger tips. Failing that pay a visit to the local tourist information office to see what is on offer in the area.

If you are lucky enough to be staying in the Rennes, Rouen or St Brieuc and have children between 4 and 11 they will enjoy a visit to one of the Woupi covered play areas with their ball pits, slides, mazes and go-carts. Also in Brittany is the Oceanopolis marine life centre which children are sure to enjoy and if the rain stops you can have a couple of hours on the beach nearby. La Rochelle too has an excellent aquarium if you are staying in the Vendée. Fans of Haribo sweets will welcome a rainy day in Provence if it means a trip to the Haribo Museum. Its interactive and passive displays will appeal to children of all ages.

Of course you don't have to stay in just because it is raining. One of the benefits of taking your own car with you is that you can throw wellies and cagoules in, so you can still get out even if it is pouring with rain. Young children can have fun with puddles, whether they are splashing around in them or trying to jump over them. Depending on the temperature, and obviously not if there is thunder, outdoor swimming pools can often feel warmer in the rain. Just make sure that you dry off quickly afterwards and have a hot drink to warm up.

Finally make sure everyone has realistic expectations of what sort of weather you are likely to encounter. In her early teens my daughter was heart-broken that she was not going home from the Vosges with a tan to compete with her friend who had been to Greece. That way they won't be able to make you feel guilty if it rains!

I have a vegetarian friend who refuses to set foot in France on the basis that there would be nothing for her to eat. Her meat-eating husband asked me last Christmas to do a bit of menu-gazing to see whether her prejudices were ill-founded.

Vegetarians and vegans are certainly a tiny minority in France and generally not well catered for. When I was in Paris in April our hotel pointed me in the direction of a specialist vegetarian restaurant but to be honest it was more of a café with a hippy-feel and whilst OK for lunch would not be suitable for a special night out.

The favourite fall-back for vegetarians is often the Indian restaurant which can usually be relied upon to produce tasty veggie dishes, but these are few and far between, even in Paris. There are more Chinese than Indian restaurants in France and vegetarians are well-catered for on most of their menus.

Alternatively there are numerous Italian restaurants both in Paris and outside with a range of vegetarian pizza and pasta dishes. However, to go to France and eat nothing but Chinese or Italian food is not a great idea, so I decided to continue my detective work last week in South West France.

I looked at dozens of menus from Michelin-starred restaurants down to the humble bistro but was hard pushed to find much variety for vegetarians. I thought I had struck lucky when I came across a vegetable risotto but on questioning the waiter it turned out that the rice had been cooked in chicken stock, which would not have pleased my veggie friend. One mid-range restaurant had a vegetable crumble as a starter and was prepared to serve a larger portion as a main course. Another bistro served "assiette de crudités" (raw vegetables with dressing) as a starter but this would not have been terribly satisfying as a main course.

Of course, in a country which claims to have over five hundred different varieties of cheese, this is always an option, but it wouldn't do much for the waistline or the cholesterol levels. Again I concluded that vegetarians were for most of the time going to have to make do with salads, pizza and pasta. If of course you are a pseudo-veggie who eats fish then you would have absolutely no difficulty finding a different dish each night.

Perhaps the best idea for vegetarians is to self-cater and do their own cooking. The shops and markets are full of lovely fresh vegetables (albeit only seasonal ones), quite unlike the regularly-shaped but tasteless ones that we put up with in the UK. Beans and pulses are readily available in supermarkets although I did not see tofu on my travels.

Finally a couple of vital phrases for the vegetarian in France:

• Je suis un vegetarien/enne - I am a vegetarian
• Je ne mange pas de viande - I do not eat meat

Much of the criminal activity in France that we hear about in the press takes place in the outer suburbs of the large cities where social problems exist. As a tourist you are unlikely to be in that sort of area but of course care needs to be taken just as at home in the UK.

Have your wits about you at airports and stations. People who are tired after travelling and busy struggling with suitcases make good targets for thieves. Ignore the taxi touts and head for the queue for the official ones. If possible keep your luggage near you on the train. If you have to use the racks at the end of compartments, secure your bags to the rack with a lightweight bicycle chain. If you are using the Metro in Paris, be aware that the lines serving tourist spots are most likely to be targeted by pick-pockets. A favourite technique is to grab a handbag just as the doors are closing so be particularly careful then.

Try not to look like a tourist. If you need to consult a map do it discreetly. Make sure that all your important documents (passport, air tickets/ferry tickets etc) are in a safe place in your holiday rental and have copies elsewhere so that if disaster strikes, you have all the details necessary to obtain replacements. A money belt worn under clothes is far safer than a handbag or wallet and it is best just to carry enough money for the day with you.

At tourist honey-pots like the Eiffel Tower be aware of people asking if you speak English. This is a common distraction technique - one person engages you in conversation whilst the other helps himself to your valuables. Likewise, watch out for people jostling you or spilling a drink on you. Both are ploys to distract you whilst their accomplice has your bag open and the contents removed before you realize what has happened.

It is best not to make eye contact with aggressive beggars or vendors. Around the Sacre Coeur in Paris, there are many crafty operators who somehow manage to get hold of your wrist, make a quick braided bracelet and then demand 10 Euros for it, so keep your distance and keep walking. In roughly the same neck of the woods, near the Moulin Rouge, there are a lot of "dodgy" clubs with doormen who tempt you in and having got your custom, charge up to 60 Euros for a spirit and mixer. It is made clear that leaving is not an option, so again avoid eye contact and keep walking if approached.

In Paris, metro stations to avoid at night are -

• Chatelet-Les Halles
• Chateau Rouge
• Gare du Nord
• Strasbourg St Denis
• Montparnasse
• Barbes - Rochechouart

There are alarm boxes (Bornes d'alarme) in the middle of all platforms on the Metro, should you need to summon help. Alternatively dial 17 for the police.

Dinan

A trip to nearby Dinan (35 km from St Malo) is like a step back in time. The ramparts, higgledy-piggledy half-timbered houses and crooked, cobbled streets seem to be straight out of the Middle Ages. Sadly the number of tourists brings you back to the 21st century with a bump! The Rue du Jerzual and the Rue du Petit Fort are excellent for art galleries and antique shops but (and I speak from experience) beware of the steep slope especially when it is wet.

Apart from just wandering around the town, window shopping, soaking up the atmosphere and listening to the chimes of the 15th century clock at the Tour de l'Horloge, a look inside the Church of St Sauveur with its Gothic chancel is well worth it. The museum housed in the ruins of the 14th century château contains an impressive display of traditional Breton head dresses, which in some communities are worn to this day.

Dinard

From St Malo the seaside town of Dinard is just a short ferry ride away. It has an old-fashioned atmosphere and the grand Edwardian houses could be straight out of a Picasso - indeed he created several paintings of the resort. It is a good place for messing around on the beach, taking a boat trip down the Rance estuary or walking along the coastal path. Guided walks of the town in English as well as French run five times a week and cover the town's history, art and architecture.

For the budding engineer a trip to the Espace Découverte is a fascinating experience. This will tell you all you ever wanted to know about the Marémotrice de la Rance, the hydroelectric power station, which exploits the enormous tidal range to generate electricity.

Cancale

There's no better place for oysters than Cancale, less than ten miles from St Malo. Here the oyster beds yield 4000 tonnes of oysters a year and it is fascinating to watch the catch being unloaded at the port. The town itself has dozens of seafood restaurants, where in addition to the local oysters, other delicious dishes such as mussels, lobsters and langoustines are served. If you need to work off your meal, the 7km walk from Cancale to Pointe du Grouin is most enjoyable, and on a clear day you may be able to see Mont St Michel.

A good introduction to St Malo is to walk the circumference of the ramparts which will give you excellent views of the bay, the small islands, machicolated towers, merchants' houses with extravagant chimney pots and cobbled streets. Sadly much of the town was destroyed during the Allied bombing raids of World War II but most of the Renaissance buildings have been painstakingly and successfully restored.

The best views are from Bastion St Phillipe and Bastion de la Hollande. The Porte St Pierre allows access to the small but usually quiet beach, Plage du Bon Secours. The Grande Plage, to the east of the ramparts, is a magnificent stretch of sand but can be crowded in the summer. At low tide it is possible to walk out to the islet, Ile du Grand Be (a half hour stroll), but once the tide is in you will be stranded out there for six hours! Be sure to check tide times before you set off and do not be tempted to risk wading ashore - the water is extremely deep.

The Musée du Château, housed in the 15th century castle built by the Dukes of Brittany, gives an interesting insight into maritime life. If pirates are your thing you will enjoy a trip to the Maison de Corsaire, although be aware that there are no guided tours in English. Children will enjoy the excellent Grand Aquarium, a couple of miles south of St Malo, where there are touch pools, underwater rides in a Nautibus and a shipwreck display.

The Cathedral of St Vincent dates from the 12th century and often has organ recitals and choral concerts. Check with the Tourist Office for details.

From St Malo, the beach resort of Dinard is just a short ferry ride away. Alternatively, visit the beautiful little medieval town of Dinan, 20 miles to the South.

Sitting in the small French town of Ceret last week I could have been forgiven for thinking I was in Spain. The red and gold Catalan flags were fluttering, we were tucking into a delicious array of tapas washed down with a jug of sangria, and several small boys in Barca football shirts were kicking a ball around the square. Strange though it may seem, it was not a case of having had one glass too many, but rather that we were holidaying in the Pyrénées-Orientales department of Languedoc Roussillon.

Only a short drive from the Spanish border, it is often known as French Catalonia and has a rich history of being passed between the two neighbours, France and Spain. In 1276 Perpignan, current day capital of the department, became the capital of the Kings of Majorca and remained under Spanish control until 1463 when Louis XI regained it for France. Thirty years later it was back in Spanish hands and stayed there until 1642 when the Spanish were expelled by Louis XIII.

Tapas are not the only Spanish dish on the menu. Many restaurants serve pa amb tomaquets (bread with olive oil and tomatoes) as a starter and for the main course paella, fideu (a type of paella with noodles instead of rice) and zarzuela (a hearty stew made with whatever fish or shellfish has been caught that day). Even simple grilled fish is shown on the menu as a la planxa, a Catalan phrase for the metal griddle on which the fish is grilled. For dessert, crema catalana replaces the more familiar French crème brulee.

As for traditions the Catalan folk dance, the sardana, is often performed in town squares throughout the summer. Sadly (at least in the opinion of most British animal lovers) the bull-fight is also alive and kicking in the region with many towns having their own bull-rings.

According to my guide book, the Catalan language is spoken by a quarter of the population and understood by an even greater percentage. I can't say I heard anyone speak it but I did notice that many towns and villages have their Catalan name displayed alongside their French name.

If you want the best of both worlds the Pyrénées-Orientales is well worth exploring and Rentals France offers a good selection of properties as well as general information on the department.

For far less than the cost of hotel accommodation you can have the privacy and space of your own villa or apartment. If you are a family rather than just a couple then the savings become even more attractive. There is no need for the whole family to squeeze into one room to keep the costs down, which can often be a temptation when staying in a hotel. If privacy and peace are not your priority, you should consider renting a property in a complex. Not only will you have the potential for company, particularly important if you have teenaged children, but many have swimming pools. All in all you may find it worth sacrificing the service provided by a hotel holiday to have plenty of bedrooms, your own living area and kitchen.

It is always difficult keeping on top of the washing in a hotel. Do you break the bank and pay hotel laundry prices, waste precious time sitting in a launderette (always supposing you can find one as they are not that common in France) or do you struggle doing your own washing in a tiny basin? When you self-cater there is no problem (provided of course that you choose a property with a washing machine).

Although part of the enjoyment of a holiday in France is undoubtedly eating out, it is clearly handy to have your own facilities for making breakfasts and snack lunches. As an alternative to eating out every evening it can be equally enjoyable to cook for yourself especially with all the lovely fresh produce available. Fish and shellfish in particular are available at a fraction of the UK price. Even if you are not a keen cook, the local deli or traiteur can provide the ingredients for a wonderful meal with the minimum of effort. It also means that you can enjoy a glass or two of the local wine without worrying about who is driving home.

Finally, there is nothing like renting to make you feel part of the community, even in Paris. Most people headed for the capital city will think automatically of a hotel but an apartment can bring you into contact with the locals in a way that a hotel never can.

The arrival of children can throw a spanner in the holiday works of the most seasoned traveller. Packing for a holiday with young children is so gargantuan that flying seems out of the question, and yet with the vagaries of the British climate, a holiday in the UK can seem a bit of a gamble.

Where better to go therefore than France? Everything can be thrown in the car and you don't need to drive hundreds of miles to find a good holiday spot. If the weather's poor then at least the food and wine should provide some compensation.

Here are my five top tips for ensuring that your holiday is every bit as enjoyable as those pre-children!

• 1. Plan your holiday like a military campaign. Think carefully about your choice of destination and don't be over-ambitious with distances. Only you know how long your children will tolerate travelling in the car without driving you crazy with cries of "Are we nearly there?" If in doubt book a hotel for an overnight stop and remember that there are lovely areas of Northern France which are ideal for family holidays.
• 2. Be prepared for every eventuality. You may feel that you are risking a slipped disc as you stagger up the stairs of the ferry carrying everything but the kitchen sink but when your child is seasick and both he and you require hourly changes of clothes you will be glad that you came prepared.
• 3. Accept that you may have to sing "The Wheels on the Bus" fifty times and play I-Spy ad nauseam if that's what it takes for peace to reign in the car. Take goody bags with stickers, colouring books and puzzles. If you wrap them up that kills even more time! Have frequent stops to kick a ball or throw a frisbee and if you're lucky the children might fall asleep. Pack drinks and snacks so that you don't have to stop every time someone is peckish.
• 4. By all means expose your children to French food but at the end of the day don't let it become an issue if all they want is French bread and ice-cream. If you need a fortnight's supply of baked beans to keep your child happy then put it in the car. Holidays are meant to be enjoyable for everyone!
• 5. Remember that the French in general are far more child-friendly than we are and that a "bonjour" or "merci" from your little one will have a magical effect. When we were rendered car-less in Brittany following a mechanical breakdown, the local baker ran us to the beach every day for a week, all because our two-year old had mumbled "bonjour" a couple of times when we went to get our morning baguette.

For a few more tips on travelling with kids take a look at our guide to Holidaying in France with young children.

The best of the lot have always had swimming pools, not always big and seldom heated but they really are a bonus and can make a property far more attractive to holidaymakers and compensate for a property not being close to the sea. Games like table-tennis or snooker are also popular with families and even if there is no room indoors, a garage, barn or even car-port can be used. A collection of board games, jigsaws and books is always welcome and most people are happy to leave books behind that they have finished reading.

Most of your potential clients will have washing machines and dishwashers at home and may be reluctant to rent a house without the same home comforts. Remember to leave the instruction manuals handy, even if they are in French, to avoid damage caused by guess-work.

If your property is not air-conditioned a few free-standing fans will reassure people that they are not going to swelter. If there is room in the main bedroom a queen size or king size bed can give your property the edge over others especially if you provide linen and towels, even if you charge for the privilege. This year our rental came complete with towels for the beach and pool too, a real boon as we were flying and therefore limited in what we could pack. Other little touches included a hair-dryer, beach chairs, mats and sun umbrella and basic ingredients for cooking.

I am glad to say that I have far more good memories than bad, but my list of bugbears includes saggy beds, plastic under sheets, rock-hard bolster-style pillows, dingy rooms with no decent lighting to read by, insufficient amounts of crockery and cutlery, empty gas canisters for the barbecue, and kitchens devoid of basics like washing-up liquid.

For children with any degree of imagination the châteaux on the Loire are magical. For little girls the fairy-tale look-alikes of Chenonceau and Azay-le-Rideau are a must. Little boys of a blood-thirsty disposition will enjoy hearing about the assassination of the Duke of Guise by bodyguards armed with swords and daggers at Blois.

Various châteaux including Chambord and Chenonceau now do audio-guides in English (some on iPods) aimed at children between 7 and 12. If you choose your châteaux carefully you will find the little extras that appeal to children. Chenonceau has its maze, Chambord its horse show and Cheverny its Tintin Museum. If your children are old enough they might enjoy the son-et-lumiere shows which are held at many of the châteaux at night. Check the websites to see which nights are in English.

If your children are keen on animals they will enjoy climbing the observation tower at Chambord to look for wild boars, stags, foxes and wild sheep or a visit to the petting zoo in Tours' Botanical Gardens. If you want a bigger zoo try the Zoo Parc de Beauval.

Intersperse mornings or afternoons out with down time on one of the river beaches such as Montrichard. It has a safe roped-off area for swimming (no big waves for timid swimmers to cope with), pedaloes to hire, mini-golf, swings and petanque. For older children the area is great for canoeing, fishing and even wind-surfing. Rowing boats can be hired at Chenonceau and the Pagoda at Chanteloup where there is also a good selection of wooden games to play with free of charge.

The Fantasy Forest Amusement Park near Cheverny provides a good day out with paint-ball, go-carts and acrobatic concourse, whilst the Espace Aquatique at Loches provides a good outing with its pools, slides, sauna and Jacuzzi.

All in all we felt that the Loire provided something for all the family and best of all it is a relatively easy drive from the Channel ports. There is a good selection of properties available here at Rentals France.

With mobile phones often costing over a pound a minute, I make a point of never using them unless it's an emergency. If you absolutely have to use your mobile it makes financial sense to text rather than talk. Alternatively you can buy a French SIM card (a mobicarte) and put it in your own mobile. You may, however, find that your phone is locked, in which case you will have to go to a mobile phone shop in France.

Public phone boxes in France are now all operated by cards (télécartes) which you can buy in the Post Office or newspaper shops/stands. They are occasionally available in other outlets where you see the sign saying "télécartes en vente ici". They are currently available for 8 or 16 Euros but if you are phoning a mobile number you will find that the credit is used up at an alarming rate! If you want to reverse the charges, dial 00 33 44 for the UK operator. If you have a carte à puce, i.e. one with a magnetic chip make sure that you insert it chip-first and at a rather odd upwards angle. In the past I have spent considerable time trying to work out how to fit it into the slot!

Many rental properties with phones understandably only accept incoming calls, so if you want to use them to make a call you will need a carte à code rather than the carte à puce. The cartes à code can be used in public phone boxes as well as from private lines. In both instances you need to dial the free phone number and the code which is revealed when you scratch off the strip, rather like a scratch card.

If you are phoning a number in France you will find that there is no such thing as an area code. Instead everyone has a ten digit number. If phoning the UK, dial 00 44 and then the rest of the number omitting the first zero. For Directory Enquiries within France, dial 12 and just hope that your French is good enough to understand the rapidly-fired number. For International Directory Enquiries, dial 32 12 but beware - a charge is made of 2.50 Euros.

The father of Fauvism, Henri Matisse, arrived in Collioure in the summer of 1905 and later wrote "Working before a soul-stirring landscape, all I thought of was making my colours sing without paying any heed to rules and regulations" The Fauves, translated as "wild animals", used bold colour and brush strokes and although the movement was short-lived, it had a profound influence on the world of art. Matisse was joined later that summer by Andre Derain, and Collioure with its unique quality of light and colour of the sea became a mecca for artists. Later Picasso and Braque both painted in Collioure.

The Chemin du Fauvisme is a sign-posted trail around the town which takes the visitor past 20 reproductions of works by the Fauvists. The tourist office sells the official guide-book for the trail. The Musee d'Art Moderne in Collioure was unfortunately closed for renovation when I visited in June 2007 but was due to open on July 1st. It has a good collection of 20th century art and is beautifully situated in a villa in the Pams Gardens.

The small town of Ceret at the foot of the Pyrenees has a very interesting Museum of Modern Art with works not only by the Fauvists but also Miro, Dali and Picasso. Many of the works were donated by the artists themselves who stayed in Ceret.

The even smaller town of St Cyprien has two art galleries. The Musée Desnoyer has an excellent collection including works by Dufy, another of the Fauves, Chagall, Miro and Picasso whilst the Centre d'Art Contemporain exhibits some rather more challenging work. One ticket admits you to both galleries although this is not advertised as far as I could see.

The small citadel town of Elne is most famous for its cathedral and cloisters but the Musée Terrus is also worth a visit. The artist Terrus was a friend of Matisse and Derain and many of his works, showing a clear Fauvist influence, are displayed here. Your ticket to the cloisters gives you free admission to the collection.

Rentals France has details of all the properties in the area.

Those of you who have back-packed around Australia will know what I mean when I say that Ze Bus is France's answer to the Oz Experience: a hop-on, hop-off bus suitable for single travellers or groups of friends. Although there is no age limit it will presumably appeal to the younger end of the market, who are happy to stay in Youth Hostels.

All the trips are circular routes and can be joined at any of the cities - ideal for being dropped off and picked up by parents who are staying put at the rental property. Accommodation is in youth hostels at a price of between 10 and 22 Euros per night and can be booked through Ze Bus. The Wine and Surf Tour goes from La Rochelle right down to San Sebastien, taking in wine tasting and great beaches, including Pyla where you will find the highest sand dune in Europe. Although it can be done in just three days it obviously makes sense to do it at a more leisurely pace. This is the cheapest of the three routes at a price of 99 Euros.

The highlights of the Western Tour at 199 Euros include Paris, the D Day beaches of Normandy, Mont St Michel, the megaliths of Carnac, La Rochelle, and the Loire Valley. If you are in a rush it is possible to do this route in four days but again there are so many places of interest en route that it would not be doing it full justice to do it at break-neck speed.

Ze Full Tour combines both the Wine and Surf and the Western tours and costs 299 Euros.

For the adrenalin junkies Ze Bus even goes to Pamplona during the Running of the Bulls Festival. So when your teenager starts on the "It's nothing personal and I would like to come to France with you BUT…" you can have your answer ready!

Lying on the beach or sitting at an outdoor café can often mean that you relax your guard. Make sure that you know where your belongings are at all times. Don't leave your handbag over the back of your seat or at your feet, and try not to take anything of value to the beach. Waterproof money belts can be bought at good camping shops and whilst not always the most comfortable things to wear on a hot beach, they are nevertheless well worth having.

Apart from Paris, Nice and Marseilles have the highest crime rates against tourists. Areas to avoid:

Marseilles

• The Old Port
• The Canebière area

Nice

• Cours Saleya
• Promenade des Anglais
• Les Moulins
• L'Ariane

A couple of handy phrases if you are the focus of unwanted attention are:

Laissez-moi tranquille - Leave me alone

Je suis occupé - I'm busy

The only other dangers that you may encounter in France tend to be natural ones. Watch out for rip tides, especially on the Atlantic and North coasts, and swim only in the zones de baignade surveille where there is a lifeguard. Weather conditions can change quickly in mountainous areas and if you are walking, or canyoning, take the advice of locals and go prepared for the worst. Make sure that someone knows where you have gone and what time you expect to be back so that if you don't turn up, help can be sought. Drink more water than you would normally when hiking in the Alps to avoid dehydration as the air is dry, and use plenty of sunscreen to take account of the stronger UV radiation at high altitudes.

Traditional Breton costume is often worn: broad-brimmed hats, embroidered waistcoats and short jackets for the men and dresses and beautifully decorated aprons for the women plus the highly distinctive lace headdresses known as the coiffe. All pardons take place between Easter and the end of October but most fall in the summer months. The most famous pardons are held at:

• Sainte-Anne d'Auray/Santez-Anna-Wened, where a humble farmer in the 17th century was ordered by the saint to build a chapel in her honour
• Tréguier/Landreger, where St Yves, the patron saint of judges, advocates, and other judicial professions is honoured
  
• Locronan/Lokorn, held in honour of St Ronan    

Fest noz (festivals of the night) are often associated with pardons but can be held as an entirely separate celebration. Food and drink play a major part in a fest noz, as do dancing and music. This encompasses everything from traditional Breton instrumental pieces to young bands playing jazz and rock and, of course, the famous Breton circular dances which are said to send the participants into a trance-like state after dancing for hours on end.

Visit French Entrée for details of the dates of particular pardons and information on finding a fest noz where you are holidaying.

The Palace of Versailles is easily accessible in 35 to 40 minutes by RER line C from various stops on the left bank to Versailles Rive Gauche station, only 700 metres from the palace. When you get off the train there are plenty of signs to the palace and it is an easy walk or short bus ride. If you want to avoid the long queues (over an hour the last time I went), it is worth buying a One Day Pass for 25 Euros. Although this may sound expensive it is easy to spend a whole day at the château - bring a picnic or eat at one of the various outlets. It is possible to do an independent visit, an audio-guide or live guide. The château was built for Louis XIV in the mid seventeenth century by 30,000 workers and soldiers and is a highly impressive display of luxury. The Hall of Mirrors was closed for three years for renovation but has recently re-opened to the public. During the summer there are all sorts of evening attractions at Versailles, including fountain displays and fireworks. Check the website for details.

If you prefer your châteaux less crowded, a trip to Fontainebleau is a must. This is a beautiful Renaissance château surrounded by the Forest of Fontainebleau, previously the royal hunting ground. The train from Paris' Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon takes between 45 minutes and an hour and local buses connect with the trains for the fifteen minute trip to the château. The admission fee is half the price of Versailles and entry to the gardens is free.

Love it or loathe it, if you have children you are unlikely to escape a holiday in Paris without a visit to Disneyland. It is about a 40 minute journey on the RER Line A from Auber, Chatelet or Etoile and you can buy a day ticket or a pass for two or three days, which need not be consecutive.

The Disneyland Park has five sections:

• Main St, a re-creation of an early twentieth century small American town.
• Frontierland, a recreation of a Wild West town with the popular Big Thunder Mountain ride and the Phantom Manor.
• Adventureland, with its Pirates of the Caribbean ride and the Indiana Jones roller-coaster with complete inversion - one to be avoided straight after lunch!
• Fantasyland, which is great for younger children with its Sleeping Beauty castle and Peter Pan ride plus a plethora of your favourite Disney characters.
• Discoveryland, with one of Disneyland's premiere attractions, Space Mountain, yet another gut-churning roller-coaster.

In addition to the delights of Disneyland Park the newer Walt Disney Studios offer an insight into how films and cartoons are made, stunt shows and studio tours.

If you are a fan of the Eurostar service to Paris you will need no convincing of the many benefits of train travel. The annual summer service from London Waterloo direct to Avignon started on Saturday July 7th and continues until Saturday Sept 8th. It is a weekly service and ideal for those holidaymakers headed for Provence who want to avoid the hassles of summer airport hell and who don't want to have the 650 mile drive from Calais. Driving will take between nine and fifteen hours whereas the journey by Eurostar is a mere 6 hours 10 minutes, station to station, and can cost less than £200 return.

I did a quick search on the eurostarpromotions.com, the website for direct services, and came up with availability for travelling out on August 24th and back on August 27th at a price of £99.50 for each leg. The train leaves Waterloo at 0709 and reaches Avignon at 1412. If that sounds too ungodly an hour to be up and about I could have travelled on the 1240 service from Waterloo which involves a 41 min wait to change trains at Lille. By doing this I could knock £25 off the price of the ticket. If I wanted to maximise my time in France the best return train would be the 1630 from Avignon, arriving at 2130 at Waterloo. If I wanted to cut the price I could have booked the 0909 service from Avignon, again involving a change of train, this time at Paris. Unfortunately you have an hour and fifty minutes between trains making it rather less appealing. This would get me into Waterloo at 1525 and costs a mere £54.50.

Avignon is an interesting destination in itself with its famous old bridge and Papal Palace plus four excellent art collections. It is also an excellent gateway to the rest of Provence, in particular the Vaucluse, an area with more than its fair share of natural beauty, good food and wine and plenty of sporting opportunities.

A quick look at the user-friendly Car Hire Centre website showed that for £138 I could hire a little Ford Ka for my week. However, given the temperatures in Provence I would do well to pay £18 more and opt for the Opel Corsa with air-conditioning. A convertible Renault Megane could be mine for just over £400 for the week if I fancied splashing out on something a bit more special for my holiday. There is an excellent selection of properties available in the region here at Rentals France.

If you are an art lover and have a choice of port, there are good reasons to opt for Le Havre. Most of Le Havre was destroyed by bombing in World War II and has been rather unattractively rebuilt but all this can be forgiven when you discover the ultra-modern Le Musée des Beaux-Arts André Malraux. Constructed of glass and steel and situated close to the harbour this is one of the best museums in Normandy with its collection of Impressionist works by Monet, Sisley, Renoir and Boudin. Fauvist Raoul Dufy, who, like Boudin was born in Le Havre, is also well represented.

If you are less ardent about art, you may prefer a walk around Honfleur, one of Normandy's most attractive seaside towns, situated only half an hour from Le Havre. Both the harbours (the old port, Le Vieux Bassin, and the fishing port, the Avant Port) are very attractive and provide a good backdrop for sitting at a café with a coffee or an ice-cream.

If you are sailing from Ouistreham you will find that the nearest city, Caen, suffered badly like Le Havre in World War II. The city planners, like those of Le Havre, appear to have had a penchant for concrete. Its saving grace, architecturally, is the Le Château de Caen with its ramparts and medieval herb garden and its two Romanesque abbeys, one built by William the Conqueror and the other by his wife, Matilda of Flanders. It also has the excellent Memorial - Un Musée Pour La Paix (a museum for peace), generally regarded as the best World War II museum in France. This museum is one of the few places outside America with remnants of the 9/11 attacks. Artwise, you may enjoy a visit to the Musée des Beaux Arts which is situated within the château's walls and contains works by Titian, Rubens, Van Dyck, Poussin and Rembrandt.

If you have children they will love the Cite de la Mer in Cherbourg, the largest aquarium in France. However, if you only have an hour or so to spare, you may think it too expensive. The Summer 2007 price for adults is 14.50 Euros and 9.50 Euros for children between 6 and 17. Alternatively the Musée Thomas Henry is worth a visit and has a collection of two hundred paintings from the 15th to the 19th centuries including works by Van Dyck, Fra Angelico and Millet.

Many years ago we had a couple of hours in Bayeux before catching our ferry home from Caen and were really sorry that we had not allowed longer to explore the town. It is one of the few places in the area to have escaped the ravages of World War II, meaning that there are plenty of picture postcard buildings which, combined with its cobbled streets, make it the perfect sort of town just to wander around. The obvious attraction is of course the famous tapestry but there is so much more to Bayeux that it is an excellent choice for a few days tagged on to the beginning or end of a holiday or, as we later did, a place for a long weekend.

The 70-metre long Bayeux Tapestry must be the most famous piece of needlework in the world. It is thought to have been commissioned by Bishop Odo for the opening of Bayeux Cathedral in 1077 and tells the tale of the Norman conquest of England. Our children were quite young when we visited but they were captivated by the gory detail of the Battle of Hastings - decapitated bodies, limbs flying around and plenty of blood! The tapestry can be found at the Musée de la Tapisserie de Bayeux where you can watch a short historical film and view a reproduction of the tapestry before heading with your audio guide to see the real thing.

Your ticket also allows entry to the Musée Baron Gerard which, as well as having a display of local lace and porcelain, also houses a collection of art from the 15th to the 19th centuries including several Impressionist works. Be aware, however, that it closes for an hour and a half each lunchtime. If you would like to see more of the local lace you will enjoy visiting the Conservatoire de la Dentelle where it is fascinating to watch the lace-makers at work. Also worth visiting is the Norman-Gothic cathedral of Notre Dame.

Bayeux is home to the Musée Memorial 1944 Bataille de Normandie, which contains one of the region's most important and poignant collections of D-Day memorabilia. Again the museum closes for lunch although re-entry is permitted if you have not had time to do it justice.

The town is also home to the largest of the Commonwealth military cemeteries with almost 5000 graves of Allied and German soldiers. It is an extremely moving experience to visit the war cemetery, and it brings home the vast scale of the devastation. For those interested in military history, Bayeux is an excellent base from which to explore the D-Day beaches of Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno and Sword.

Research by Assetz Finance has revealed that the loan-to-value ratio offered by French banks to British buyers has increased from 80% to 90%. These developments will prove highly beneficial for the many thousands of Britons who purchase holiday homes in France each year.

Assetz Finance's Overseas Mortgage Manager, Katy Hepworth has emphasized the importance of these changes, stating: "This is a long-awaited improvement in French borrowing, and with rates currently starting at 4.45 per cent and mortgage terms of up to 30 years available, these 90 per cent LTV mortgages are extremely affordable."

Looking to buy a property in France? Here are a few points worth considering. A number of new developments have sprung up in recent months, many of which are aimed at foreign buyers wishing to enter the French property market. One such location is the Residence de la Tour de Mare which is situated just outside Cannes. The area possesses excellent sporting facilities, breathtaking gardens and is only a few kilometres away from the seaside. Whilst the cost of a property in a development such as this tends to vary, prices are significantly lower compared to similar residences in Britain.

Real estate agents advise British buyers to take full advantage of these favourable developments. Nevertheless, there are a number of indications which suggest that the French property market is entering a period of sustained growth. The Sarkozy administration has undertaken important steps to kick-start the housing sector. These include the provision of tax breaks to first-time French buyers and the sale of some 40,000 council homes - a move reminiscent of housing policy under Thatcher. It seems as though the French property market is looking towards Britain for more than just buyers these days!

Unless you have any strong likes or dislikes it is best to put yourself in the hands of the waiter and have a selection. They will be placed in a circle on the plate with the mildest positioned at 12 o'clock and getting stronger in flavour as you work round in a clockwise direction. Cheese is traditionally served before the dessert in France and is generally eaten with a knife and fork or with bread but no butter. If you are invited to a French home for dinner and have to serve yourself from the cheeseboard, make sure that you do not cut the tip off the wedge-shaped cheeses like Brie or Camembert and take your fair share of the less appealing crust part of the blue cheese.

When buying cheese for a picnic or meal in your rental property you are far better off going to a specialist cheese shop than a supermarket. The fromager is usually an expert keen to advise on what you should buy and even if your French is not up to a detailed conversation, you will almost always be able to taste before buying.

The five hundred or so cheeses in France can generally be grouped as follows:

Fromage de chèvre (goat's cheese)

Fromage à pate persillée (blue cheese)

Fromage à pâte molle (soft cheese)

Fromage à pâte demi-dure (semi-hard cheese)

Fromage à pâte dure (hard cheese)

The French countryside is spectacularly beautiful. A boating holiday along one of the country's many canals provides the perfect opportunity to experience the beauty of rural France whilst still allowing you to enjoy a relaxed sailing holiday. The Breton canals are some of the finest in France. Breton's river network consists of some 600km of navigable waterways. Holidaymakers can take two principal routes.

The English Channel-Ocean link
This runs by the towns of Rennes, Dinan and Roche. If you choose to take this route then you will have the opportunity to cruise along the Ille-et-Rance Canal which connects the English Channel to the Atlantic Ocean. It is possible to moor your boat along the canal bank and visit the many towns and villages in the area.

The Nantes-Brest canal
As the name suggests, this canal links the towns of Nantes and Brest. It was constructed during the 19th century and covers over 360km.

French tourist operators encourage visitors to explore the country's waterways. Companies often organize leisure activities under the "From one bank to the other" scheme. A range of activities are provided which include nautical activities, tours and games for children.

Elsewhere, the Canal du Centre follows a scenic route through the French countryside. No visit to the Bourgogne is complete without a trip along its principal waterway. The Bourgogne Canal has recently undergone major renovation and is now enjoyable (and relatively easy) to cruise.

Passionate sailors will undoubtedly want to explore the rugged coastline of Northwest Brittany. The port of Camaret-sur-mer is an excellent starting-point as it is largely sheltered from the Atlantic winds. There are a number of charming ports located approximately a day's sail away from Camaret. Despite their small size, these fishing villages possess great charm and, from a practical perspective, are a great place to moor your boat if you need to stock up on supplies. However, unless you are an experienced yachtsman, then it is unadvisable to explore the area by yourself as currents and tides are often unpredictable.

For further information on sailing in the Brittany region, visit www.brittanysail.co.uk.

In the 12 month period from June 2006 to June 2007, Holiday Lettings registered a huge increase in the number of properties being added to its online directory. Of all the country categories, only Spain saw a larger number of holiday homes being added than France. The prolonged damp weather in June and July is thought to be a key factor, spurring the search for a place in the sun. Those concerned about travel-related carbon emissions but unable to endure wet British climes have salved their green conscience by not going long-haul.

The South of France, thanks to a good air transport link with the UK, is an almost perfect destination virtually on the doorstep. The region offers reliably hot summers and there's hardly any question that it is a lot more chic than a waterlogged cottage in the Cotswolds. Buying a home here is a relatively low risk investment that appeals equally to property professionals and vacationers. An abundance of suitable second homes is another advantage enjoyed by a Southern region like Alpes-Maritime.

This area is currently a hot favourite. Here, apartments, penthouses and studios make up 76% of the accommodation available through Holiday Lettings.

Ross Elder, co-founder and now Managing Director of Holiday Lettings, believes this is a stable market: "House prices are increasing in France, but as long as the investor purchases and furnishes a property to meet the demographic of the visitors to that location, there should be potential for attracting holidaymakers and achieving a return on investment."

The overseas arm of property agent Rightmove, has one bedroom apartments on its books from just over £60,000. Over a quarter of a million searches for French property were carried out on the Right Move Overseas website during June. French properties comprise just over a fifth of the properties on the site, 25% of those listed for less than £100,000. Justin Figgins, the Head of Rightmove Overseas, cautions against bargain hunting if the property is bought as an investment, however. "Whether on a buying trip or holiday to the South of France, expect rental prices to reflect the popularity and status of the destination." To make substantial profits, first-timers need to do their homework.

And what about the prospect of floods in France? Not impossible, by any means. The good news is that anyone planning a move to France can now sign up for metnext.com - an early warning system for those involved in farming, tourism and other weather-dependent industries. The scheme highlights forthcoming weather risks, allowing you to manage risks and at least giving you time to look up "sandbags" in your French dictionary before the deluge...

If your other half is not a rugby fan you may well think that your suggestion of a trip to see the action in France won't be well received. However, many of the matches conveniently take place in cities which are attractive in themselves and which are within easy driving distance of areas which would be ideal for a family holiday.

Nantes

For those who prefer culture to rugby, Nantes is a vibrant city with various museums, Romanesque churches and a distinctly Breton feel.

The Loire-Atlantique has a good variety of beaches, from long sandy stretches to secluded rocky coves. You could rent this apartment in La Baule, a sophisticated resort with much more of the feel of a resort on the Med. If you want something a bit more traditional you might like this property only 35 mins from La Rochelle, a bustling seaside resort with something for every member of the family.

Bordeaux

Bordeaux is an attractive city with pedestrianised boulevards and a beautiful historic centre.

There are plenty of beaches in the area from the family-friendly ones at Montalivet, Soulac and Lacanau (with two very nice rental properties on our website) to the massive dunes of Arcachon bordered by pine forests. There are also several amusement parks if your kids tire of the beach, and a visit to Aqualand is always fun. There are opportunities for all sorts of water-sports along the coast and of course it goes without saying that the region is excellent for wine tasting.

Toulouse

Toulouse has a real buzz to it with a good café and bar scene as well as narrow medieval streets, churches, cathedrals and museums.

Having had your adrenalin-charged fix of rugby you will find that in whichever direction you head from Toulouse you have an abundance of choice for a chilled antidote: beautiful countryside, little medieval hill towns and beaches on the Med or the Atlantic. My personal choice would be to rent any of several Perpignan properties where you could be forgiven for thinking you were in Spain. Often called French Catalonia it offers all the ingredients for a good holiday.

Montpelier

Montpelier is a pleasant city with students making up a quarter of its population. It has an attractive old quarter with some beautiful old mansions, pavement cafés and street entertainers.

From Montpelier there is a good choice of beaches as well as the under populated and rugged Garrigue to the north. Rentals France features many properties in the area from a Provençal-style villa to a house in the foothills of the Corbières Mountains but only ten minutes from the coast. If you rent near La Grande Motte you will find lots to keep everyone entertained but you may find the beach crowded and a little soulless, so try the tranquil Plage des Aresquiers.

Even if you are unable to get tickets for the rugby, there will be giant screens in town squares and with the French passion for the game the atmosphere is bound to be electric.

Alternatively you can still enjoy the beautiful mountain scenery without the exertion by going for a trip on France’s highest train, the Tramway du Mont Blanc, from St Gervais le Fayet to the aptly named Nid d’Aigle (the Eagle’s Nest). Various summer luge tracks are on offer in the Alps and if you go to the one at the  Parc de Loisirs de Chamonix you can also participate in other child-friendly activities such as trampolining, obstacle courses and funfair rides. If the summer luge wasn’t enough to get the adrenalin flowing then perhaps some white water activity on the River Arve will suit you. Cham Aventure organises white water rafting, canyoning and hydroglisse which involves swimming in the river with helmet, flippers and a float! If, like me, you wear glasses, make sure that when you take to the white water, your specs are firmly secured round your head to avoid an unscheduled trip to the optician!

Another activity is to take to the skies and enjoy a spot of  paragliding. There are various paragliding outlets in the region including Summits and Les Ailes du Mont Blanc, both in Chamonix. If you are unlucky with the weather there are plenty indoor activities available at the Centre Sportif Richard Bozon in Chamonix, including an indoor pool, squash courts, skating rink and climbing wall. The only problem that our children found with the climbing wall was that if you don’t have a clue what you are doing and don’t speak great French, you may have difficulty following the instructor who spoke French at break-neck speed.

If after all the sporting activity you fancy a bit of relaxation there is a cinema in Chamonix which shows the latest films in English. There is also an excellent array of  bars and clubs should you have the energy to set foot outside your holiday rental in the evening!

Casals, the world famous cellist, was born in Spain in 1876 and being an ardent Republican fled from his homeland when General Franco came to power, vowing never to return to Spain until democracy was restored. He became an exile in the small French Catalan town in the Tet Valley and spent a large part of the 1940s and 1950s there. He founded the music festival in 1951 and since its inception it has attracted world famous musicians. Even after he went to live in Puerto Rico he continued to direct the Prades Festival for a further ten years.

The first concert of the 2007 season is held on 26 July and features works by Bach, Brahms and Beethoven played by the Orchestre de Palma de Majorca. The setting is about a mile outside Prades at the beautiful Abbey of St Michel de Cuxa, a medieval Catalan monastery, currently occupied by a small community of Benedictine monks from the monastery of Montserrat in Spain.

Lesser known composers, such as Rubinstein and Gnessin feature in the festival as well and on the final night, all the soloists taking part this year play works by their own nations’ composers:  Bach, Mozart, Britten, Franck, Prokofiev, Lutoslawski, Von Donhanyi  and Corigliano. Concerts also take place in the Eglise St Pierre de Prades and other local churches as well as at the abbey.

Several of the concerts are free and some take place in the early evening unlike those at the Abbey which do not start until 9pm. Eglise St Pierre is well worth a visit even if you are not attending a concert there. It has an impressive 12th century Romanesque bell tower and 17th century sculpture “The Entombment of Christ” by the Catalan sculptor Josep Sunyer, who was also responsible for the church’s altar-piece, said to be the largest in France.

The Musee Pablo Casals is an interesting testimony to Prades’ most famous resident and contains some fascinating photos and letters along with his piano.

The Rentals France website has a good selection of properties in the Pyrenees Orientales including some in Prades itself.

First of all do your homework on ferry crossings. Routes with the most competition such as Dover to Calais tend to be the cheapest. It pays to book as far ahead as possible, especially if you are travelling in high season. If you are flexible with your dates, have a look at the ferry websites which give you comparisons of different dates and times, in a similar way to airlines. Discount-brokers such as Ferrycheap are worth a look. Depending on where you are headed, do some calculations to see whether a longer more expensive crossing could work out cheaper in the long run if it saves in terms of petrol, toll charges and overnight accommodation.

Think carefully about your choice of destination too. There are some lovely spots within easy driving distance of the Channel ports meaning that you save motoring costs and overnight hotel costs. If you do feel that an overnight stop is necessary, the budget hotel chains offer good value if all you need is somewhere to sleep.

The regional guides on the Rentals France website offer evaluations of which areas offer good value for money. Even within each department there can be variation, with properties near the sea generally costing more. Properties with swimming pools usually cost more too and if you are near the sea or a swimming lake you may not feel the need for a pool. Rental prices out of high season are obviously cheaper and if you are not tied to school holidays, June and September are lovely months in France, with good weather and none of the crowds. If you are able to take off at the last minute there are some good late availability offers on Rentals France.

A rental property gives you the perfect chance to save money when it comes to eating and drinking. There is no need to eat out every evening if you are on a budget. With the lovely fresh produce available in the local markets and shops you can barbecue or cook a delicious meal very reasonably. If you are not a keen cook, try the local 'traiteur' for a selection of delicious ready-cooked dishes which you just need to heat up. Alternatively why not buy a selection of pates, cheese and cold meats and serve them with a salad and French bread? There is plenty of very reasonable wine in the supermarkets but if you want a real bargain then buy direct from the producer. You may have to take your own containers but you can buy several litres for a few Euros.

When you are eating out, the lunch-time menu is usually excellent value. Ask for the "menu a prix fixe". Sometimes this will include a jug of wine (vin compris). French tap water is absolutely fine to drink so ask for "une carafe d'eau" rather than buying bottled water to have with your meal. Having your own kitchen means that you can take a picnic and your own drinks if you go out for the day. Soft drinks at bars and cafés often cost more than wine so having your own can cut down on costs especially if you are a large family. Sitting at a table on the pavement is more expensive than standing at the bar and if it is on the sea-front, expect to pay a premium. Many towns have drinking fountains where you can top up your own water bottle. If there is a sign saying "eau non potable", steer clear as this means that the water is not for drinking.

If you are doing a lot of sight-seeing, entrance fees can add up quickly. Check the Internet or a good guide book to find out when you can get in free. For instance the Louvre offers free admission on the first Sunday of the month as well as being free for under 26s after 6pm on a Fri. If you are in Paris the Paris Museum Pass (which used to be called the Carte Musees-Monuments) can be a good buy, depending on how many places you intend visiting. If you are a senior, student or under 18 make sure you have the required evidence as most places offer a discount. Teachers and professional artists also get free admission to some museums provided they can provide evidence of their profession.

Car hire is comparatively expensive in France so first of all think about whether you really need your own wheels. France has an excellent rail network, far cheaper and more extensive and efficient than ours in the UK. If you do not intend doing much exploring, the cost of train fares and a few taxis may work out to be a lot less than hiring a car.

Having decided, however, that a hire car is for you there are plenty of options on the Internet. The user-friendly Car Hire Centre website compares the five major brokers and has some great deals which can all be booked online quickly and easily. One of the few downsides to France is its bureaucracy, and hiring a car is no exception. To avoid wasting time with the whole family standing in the queue, the driver might like to steam ahead leaving the rest of the party to gather up the luggage. Make sure though that the driver has their passport, driving licence, rental voucher and the credit card used to make the booking as all these are required before the car keys are handed over. Talking of car keys, guard them with your life because if they are lost or stolen the replacement charge can be pretty hefty (200 Euros in the case of National Car Hire). If you are planning on taking your car out of France, for instance into Spain or Italy, make sure that this is permitted by the rental company.

If you are offered an upgrade don't accept it without first deciding whether it is suitable for your requirements. We were offered an upgrade from a pint sized Citroen to a brute of a Picasso people carrier and never being one to look a gift horse in the mouth I accepted without engaging brain. Whilst it was good to have the extra power on the motorway it was a real challenge to park and manoeuvre through the maze of narrow streets in some of the walled medieval towns that we visited. The national pastime of shoe-horning a car in a tiny alley has achieved art form status only because the majority of French cars are small.

Before you drive the car away make sure that you take time to inspect the bodywork carefully, even if it's pouring with rain or pitch dark. The said Picasso had a nasty scrape down one side (yes, someone else had found it hard to park!) which had not been noted on the rental papers. Also take time to acquaint yourself with how the car works. Caught in a thunder storm on the motorway is not the best time to have to work out how the windscreen wipers turn on. Having said that, the wipers were not a problem with the Picasso. Indeed every time my husband put the car into gear (the gears by the way were located on the steering wheel), they came on regardless of weather conditions. What was a problem, however, was the handbrake - not how to release it but merely how to find it. Having hunted high and low and in the absence of a handbook we had to admit defeat and seek help. It turned out to be cunningly disguised in the form of a square button in the middle of the dashboard which we had wrongly assumed was the hazard lights. If you are hiring an automatic do not assume that the car will hold in gear on a hill. One of the Picasso's more alarming habits was its tendency to roll back when moving one's foot from the brake to the accelerator.

You will be charged a punitive amount for not returning your car with a full tank of petrol so make sure that you build in time to do this when returning to the airport. Petrol is cheapest at supermarkets and most expensive on motorways and remember that small petrol stations often close for a long lunch so don't get caught out. Do not depend either on being able to pay at the pump with your debit or credit card as many do not yet accept foreign cards. When looking for the hire car return point at the airport do not assume that there will be any sign in English, telling you where to go. Instead watch out for signs saying location de voitures which means car rental not location of cars!

Despite the trials of our much-maligned upgrade there is no doubt that hiring a car is a great way to see parts of France which you may feel are just too far to drive from the UK. The only problem is that other drivers assume you are French so if you stop to ask directions be prepared for a rapid-fire answer!

For more information on driving in France, see the article on the Rentals France website.

Preparing your vehicle

It goes without saying that before leaving the UK you should have the car serviced. If your car is laden down with luggage, check that your tyre pressure is correct and make sure that you do not overload your roof-rack. To avoid dazzling oncoming traffic in France your headlamps must be fitted with deflectors, even if you do not plan to drive at night. If your car does not have Euro-plates you must display a GB sticker.

There are then various items of equipment to think of which are either required by French law or recommended for driving in France. A warning triangle must be carried even though you may think your hazard lights are sufficient, the rationale being that hazard lights are not much good in case of electrical breakdown. Since it is illegal to drive with a broken light a spare set of replacement bulbs is also a must, as are a flash light and first aid kit. Visibility vests are not yet compulsory in France but will give you peace of mind in case of a breakdown at night. Also recommended are a spare set of fuses, spare keys and a fan belt.

It may seem rather over-the-top to suggest taking a car manual with you but several years ago we broke down in an isolated part of Brittany and as the local garage was unable to repair the car in time, we ended up taking a taxi, fortunately at the insurance company's expense, for the 300 mile journey back to the port and the car followed (still not working) at a later date. The problem turned out to be the French mechanic's lack of familiarity with the Ford electronic ignition. Had he had the manual available, complete with diagrams, it would not have been a problem. A mobile telephone is obviously useful but do not be tempted to use it whilst driving as on the spot fines can be imposed.

Paperwork

So long as you have the modern photo licence you do not need a special driving licence for holidaying in France. You must have at least third-party insurance and your insurance company must have been notified. The old green cards are no longer required. You will also need a European accident report form which is available from your insurance company. Your licence and insurance documents must be carried with you in the car at all times as should the car registration document and, if you are not the owner of the car, you must have evidence of permission from the owner. This applies too to company cars. All these documents can be requested by the police at any time and there is no period of grace to produce them. It is obviously advisable to have vehicle recovery insurance and this can be obtained from the AA or RAC and various other organisations.

Speed Limits

Speed limits in France are at times enforced in a draconian fashion (hefty on-the-spot fines payable by cash only, confiscation of your licence and possible prison sentence according to how fast you were driving) so it is vital that you know what they are.

• Motorways - 130 km per hour (110 if wet)
• Dual Carriageways - 110 km per hour (100 if wet)
• Open Road - 90 km per hour (80 if wet)
• Town - 50 km per hour (same when wet)

If you have held your licence for less than two years or are towing a trailer which brings your combination weight over 3.5 tons, the "wet" speed limits apply.

Town speed limits start as soon as you see the town sign and not necessarily when you see the first 50 km per hour sign.

Don't think you can cheat the system by bringing a radar detector. They are illegal in France even when switched off and if you are caught you will not only have it confiscated but you will be banned from driving in France for three years. This could be bad news if you are the only driver as you will have to arrange for your car to be repatriated to the UK. The good news is that speed cameras in France are always well signposted and usually several hundred yards before the actual camera.

Headlights must be switched on in fog, mist or other poor visibility.

Giving way

Unless directed otherwise, give way to traffic on your left. One of the most notorious exceptions to this rule is the Arc de Triomphe roundabout in Paris where you give way to traffic on the right, meaning that cars on the roundabout have to stop to let traffic join. If you see a sign like an upended yellow square beware! This is the infamous "Priorite a droite" sign meaning that you must give way to traffic joining your road from the right, even if you are travelling at speed down the main road. This happens predominantly in villages and country roads but be aware at all times that it is a possibility that someone will come careering out of a side-turning so make sure you are prepared to stop.

Breakdowns and emergencies

If you break down you should pull over on the right, put on your hazard lights and put your warning triangle 30 metres behind the vehicle, making sure that it is clearly visible 100 metres away. The emergency telephone numbers are as follows:-

• Police 17
• Fire service 18
• Ambulance 15
• Local emergency services 112

On motorways there are free emergency phones (orange in colour) every two km but if you do not feel safe leaving your car there are regular patrols who will help you.

Drinking and driving

The best advice is don't! The acceptable limit is much less than in the UK (0.5 mg/ml rather than 0.8 mg/ml) and equates roughly, depending on all sorts of other factors, to two small glasses of wine. All drink driving offences in France now go to court and it is simply not worth taking the risk. One of the joys of self-catering holidays is of course that you can enjoy a relaxing meal at home whilst taking advantage of the very reasonably priced wine, without one of your number having to abstain.

Seat Belts

As in the UK, safety belts are compulsory for front and back seat passengers. Children under 10 must be in the back of the car and if they are between 9kg and 15kg they must have a special child seat. So long as they are more than 15 kg they can use a booster seat.

Parking

It can often be confusing abroad, trying to work out where you are allowed to park and the following phrases may be useful

• Parking gratuit - free parking
• Parking payant - paying parking
• Stattionement interdit - parking forbidden
• Stattionement alterne semi-mensal - alternate side parking (signs showing the numbers 1 to 15 and 16 to 31 mean that you cannot park on that side between these dates)

Parking in a Zone Bleu is permissible only if you have the sticker which is usually sold in a tobacconists or a garage.

Conditions vary from place to place but parking is sometimes permitted between 7pm and 9am (except on market days), public holidays and in the month of Aug. It is not worth risking a fine though if you are in any doubt.

Tolls

On the autoroutes des peage tolls are charged which make this a more expensive way of travelling but probably worth it for the saving in time, danger and frustration as it can often be difficult overtaking on single carriage roads especially with so many lorries. Tickets are issued at the start of the section of motorway that you are using and you pay at the end, either with cash or credit card. The payment booths are of course on the left (apart from some near Calais where there are separate lanes for right hand drive cars) so make sure your front seat passenger has the cash or card ready. Tickets are stamped with the time and the police do sometimes check to see whether you have been speeding.

Useful phrases

• Deviation - diversion
• Chaussee deformee - uneven road
• Cedez le passage - give way
• Allumez vos feux - switch on your headlights
• Serrez a droite - keep right
• Serrez a gauche - keep left
• Sortie - exit
• Toute droite - straight on
• Vous n'avez pas la priorite - you do not have priority
• Priorite a droite - give way to your right

Why France and why self-catering?

With most families opting to take their own car to France, it has to be the ideal destination when travelling with all the paraphernalia required for young children. Push-chairs, travel-cots, little bikes and suitcases full of clothes and packs of nappies can all be accommodated (provided your car is big enough!) and if these are the things that will make life easy on holiday, why leave them at home? There is something for everyone in France: lakes, mountains, tranquil beaches, chic seaside resorts and interesting cities (although they have limited appeal for most families with young children) and best of all the French love children. Renting a holiday home will give you far more freedom than a hotel and of course is also better value.

Where to go?

First consider your destination carefully. You really do not need to drive hundreds of miles to have a good holiday in France. One of our most enjoyable holidays when our children were young was in Normandy. It was an easy drive from the port and we had perfect weather, much better than our friends who had a longer drive to a rain-soaked Brittany and far more comfortable than other friends who baked on the Mediterranean. If you are determined to head further afield, then an overnight stop or two in a hotel can prevent the trip turning into a feat of endurance for parents and children alike. It need not cost an arm and a leg and if all you need is somewhere to sleep, there will not be a problem with the whole family sharing a room in one of the budget motels. Many provide extra beds for children or you may wish to take your own travel-cot.

How to get there?

Having chosen your destination, you should give careful thought to the various ways of getting there. Most visitors use the cross-Channel ferries and take their own cars. There is a huge variation in length of crossing and departure times as well. If you opt for the quick crossing to Calais, this may mean a longer drive which is all very well if your children can be relied upon to sleep or behave beautifully. If they can't (and few can) you may be better off spending longer on the ferry and having a shorter drive. Most ferries have play areas for children and some even have a swimming pool. It is worth paying for a cabin, even the most basic type, to use as a base and to let the children have a nap if they are tired. If your children are good sleepers you might want to take an overnight ferry crossing. Some of the cabins, however, can be noisy, either from engine noise or from fellow passengers getting the holiday off to a good start with a few drinks and even drinking games, so a good night's sleep cannot be guaranteed. Bear in mind too that some of the ferries dock very early in the morning are excellent for getting an early start to the drive but bad news if your children are fractious for the rest of the day because they have had their sleep disturbed.

The Shuttle is quick and easy in theory but the drawback with young children is that it is not practical for them to wander around so give some thought to entertaining them.

If you are travelling to the south of France you may think it worth flying and hiring a car at the other end. Although this limits what you can take, you may well feel it is a price worth paying. Most airlines will let you take your pushchair right up to the door of the plane and will allow families with young children to board first.

Choosing the right house

By using our rental property search, you should be able to see quickly and easily whether or not a property is suitable for children and you can check direct with the owner if you have any doubts. Not many of us are used to doing the washing by hand at home and there is no reason to do so whilst on holiday. Make sure if you envisage having to wash clothes, that the house has a washing machine as launderettes are few and far between in much of France. The same applies to dishwashers if you hate washing up by hand. Even if you no longer use a stair gate at home you might want to pack one if space allows. Many French properties are full of character and have steep winding staircases which can be a hazard for a young child. Thick walls can also mean that you may not hear your child crying in bed whilst you are sitting in a different part of the house so a baby monitor can be useful. Consider packing a plug-in night-light too, as shutters can make bedrooms darker than at home. If your house has a pool it must by law be fenced off but extreme caution still needs to be exercised and some families decide that it is not worth the worry.

Surviving a long car journey

It can be hard keeping your child entertained on a long journey and perhaps the best tip is to make use of the lovely rest areas on French motorways. Keep a ball or frisbee handy and let the children have a good run around. With luck they might sleep afterwards. Have a good supply of drinks and little snacks like raisins, bread sticks and dried fruit so that you don't have to keep stopping every time they are hungry or thirsty. Before going on holiday wrap up a few little parcels and hand them out at regular intervals or as a reward for good behaviour. Things like a colouring book and crayons, stickers, a puzzle, or a puppet always go down well. For the sake of your sanity, avoid things with little pieces that will inevitably be dropped in the most inaccessible part of the car. There are lots of ideas on the Internet for games to play on the journey if three hours of I-Spy is not your idea of fun! Story or nursery-rhyme tapes are preferable to books if your child is travel-sick. If this is a problem make sure you have a plentiful supply of wipes, old towels and spare clothes and get the child to focus on a long-distance object. Don't give them a full meal before travelling and try ginger biscuits if they are too young for over-the-counter travel sickness pills. A few drops of peppermint oil on a hankie can also help.

Eating

One of the joys of a holiday in France is of course the food. Most restaurants welcome children and will produce something to suit even if a children's menu is not offered. If you would like the occasional dinner "a deux" it might be worth asking the owner if they know of an English-speaking babysitter or alternatively consider holidaying with grandparents or friends. Even if you do not eat out much, cooking in France is very enjoyable with so much delicious fresh produce available. If you have fussy eaters, French supermarkets stock most things and although it is great to expose children to different food, it is not worth turning holiday mealtimes into a battle ground. If your toddler just has to have a particular brand of baked beans then make room in the car for a supply. One final tip, if you have just started weaning your baby, respect his sensitive stomach and don't introduce too many new foods on holiday. I still remember the unpleasant consequences of a jar of "jambon et carrottes" on my son!

If your child is ill

As well as packing a first-aid kit make sure you take a good supply of liquid paracetamol or other junior painkiller. If you have a child who is prone to things like ear infections it may be worth asking your GP for a powdered antibiotic which you can mix with water yourself if it is required on holiday. On the subject of ears, make sure you dry your child's ears properly if they are spending a lot of time in the pool to avoid earaches or infections. High factor sunscreen is a must and remember that even sitting under a parasol on the beach, a young child can still burn from the rays bouncing off the sand. There are of course excellent doctors in France should you need to consult them in an emergency but beware - the preferred method in France for administering drugs is by suppositories which may come as a shock for both you and your child!

Planning ahead and booking early guarantees you maximum choice and access to the optimal rental. Avoiding last minute bookings can also save you money. Last minute renters invariably have to settle for fewer amenities or a higher price. If you are booking last minute, make sure you review our Last Minute Offers section because this features some great properties that have had recent cancellations or have reduced their price to excellent value deals.

2. Get a lease or Rental Agreement

Be sure to get everything down on paper before you send any payments. The owner should send you a Rental Agreement by email, fax or by post. Read this document and make sure it covers all the questions you have (e.g. how much payment is needed and when, what happens if there is a problem, what is expected of you when you leave the property, under what circunstances might you not receive your deposit back).

3. Don't miss deadlines for deposits and payments

Missed payment deadlines can result in a forfeiture of monies