Introduction

Located to the east of the country and part of the Rhône-Alpes region, Ain is one of many good areas in France for lovers of the outdoors, due to its situation along the Jura mountain range and the many rivers which permeate its borders.

Major cities

Ain is by no means densely populated due to the mountainous terrain on the eastside. A 1999 census counted 515,270 denizens across a land area of 5,762 km². The largest city is the prefecture of Bourg-en-Bresse, with the following significant communes:

• Gex
• Belley
• Nantua
• Montluel
• Ambérie-en-Bugey
• Ferney-Voltaire
• Oyonnax

History

Ain was established in March 1790 as an amalgamation of the old provinces of Bresse, Bugey, Dombes, Gex and a segment of Franc-Lyonnais. The territory has historically retained some distance from France as part of the kingdom of Burgundy, with its culture partly influenced by the Austrian Habsburgs and bordering Switzerland (the commune of Gex was at one time during the 19th century part of Switzerland's customs region).

Indeed, the territory only fell into French hands in 1601 and the enduring appeal of the Franco-Provençal dialect of Bressan in rural areas reflects the diverse nature of the department even today. That said, Ain is still a key contributor to the most French of industries – wine and cheese – and this factor, coupled with the opportunities for skiing and hiking, explains the area's appeal to visitors.

Weather

Due to its location, Ain has a fluctuating climate with very good, Mediterranean-esque summers, but chilly winters comparable to northern France. The average temperatures in Bourg-en-Bresse will give you a sense of what to expect:

Average temperature in Bourg-en-Bresse

Period	Celsius	Fahrenheit
January-March	4	39
April-June	14	57
July-September	19	66
October-December	7	4

Tourist attractions

Many of the best sights in Ain can be found in Bourg-en-Bresse. Chief among these are the Church of Notre-Dame, a 16th century melange of Renaissance and Gothic styles, and the Royal Monastery of Brou, a 16th century church built by the Habsburg princess Margaret of Austria. The latter is particularly impressive due to its interior, incorporating a beautiful rood screen, numerous works of art and the mausoleums of Margaret, Philibert II (her husband and the Duke of Savoy) and Marguerite of Bourbon.

Ancient architecture is also present in Belley, especially the Cathedral of Belley. Rebuilt on medieval foundations in the mid-19th century, highlights include a series of 19th-century frescoes, Chinard's 18th-century sculpture of the Virgin and the relics of Saint Anthelme, the 12th-century bishop of the commune.

Perhaps the most remarkable sight of all, however, is the town of Ferney-Voltaire. The commune is named after the 18th-century philosopher, who resided in the commune between 1759 and 1778, building up the area himself as a cultural retreat. Ferney-Voltaire is today dominated by his persona, with the main point of interest the Château de Voltaire, owned by a branch of France's Ministry of Culture and restored in period design. Guided tours are available if you want to traverse the town further and, with a statue of Voltaire in the town centre and an annual festival in dedication to his works, you won't be able to avoid the great man!

Ain is rather sparsely populated and, as such, there is plenty to see wherever you go. If you can, try and make time for the numerous smaller towns such as Pérouges and Treffort which, at first glance, appear as monuments to the medieval era, emphasising the beauty of the area.

Family entertainment

The main activities on offer in Ain revolve around its natural beauty. For example, try fishing on the shores of the Saône river, exploring the Cerdon caves, canoeing in Oyonnax, or river tours on the Rhone canal, the Savières canal and Lake Bourget.

If that's not enough, the Parc des Oiseaux in Villar les Dombes is another decent option for a family day out.

Museums, galleries and culture

Ain is rather provincial in its range of museums, focusing solely on regional history and culture. The best museum in the area is probably the Museum of Bresse in Saint-Cyr-sur-Menthon, dealing with the ethnology, gastronomy and art of Ain. Also worth a glance is the Museum of Bugey-Valromey, concentrating on life in the Bugey-Valromey region from the 18th century to the present day. In general though, the selection is not especially good.

Shopping

Local crafts, particularly furniture and earthenware, can be found in most of Ain's shopping outlets and local markets. Bourg-en-Bresse is a good place to start, and the commune actually runs a National Antique Fair each year.

Skiing

Thanks to the Jura mountain range, there are many ski resorts littered across Ain. Cross-country skiing is particularly popular due to the Plateau de Retord and the communes of Oyonnax, Giron and Menthières, but alpine skiing is also possible in resorts like Monts Jura.

Walking

Home to the Crêt de Chalam (1,545 metres), The Grand Colombier (1,531 metres) and the Crêt de la Neige (1,720 metres), hikers in Ain will have no problems keeping themselves occupied. There are also routes through Bresse, Dombes and Bugey. Check at the Bourg-en-Bresse Tourist Office in Avenue Alsace Lorraine for more details.

Somewhat less taxing, but nevertheless beautiful, are the gardens and parks in the department like those of the 18th century Palais Episcopal in Belley, the Museum of Revermont and the Lavours Marsh (a 2,400 metre stilted route).

Golf

Ain contains an exceptional 12 courses within its borders. Golf de Bourg-en-Bresse, Golf du Clou in Villars-les-Dombes and Golf de Divonne-les-Bains are some of the best.

Wine-tasting

The region of Burgundy is famous for its Chardonnay, Pinor Noir, Gamay and Pinot Blanc varieties, with some amongst the most expensive wines in France due to the tradition of winemaking in the area. Most of these derive from the Beaujolais region north of Lyon and can be found in Ain.

The department's direct contribution can be seen around Belley, including some quality Chardonnay, Altesse and Roussette whites and Gamay reds. Vineyards can also be found in the Cerdon valley and Challex, near Gex.

Food and drink

The territory has a history of involvement in gastronomy, with Belley's Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin writing the famous 'Physiology of Taste' based on his experiences in the area. Indeed, the local gastronomy is celebrated every October in Belley with the 'Entretiens de Belley' festival.

Restaurant menus are stocked with regional Burgundian specialities like coq au vin (fricasseed chicken with wine, mushrooms, garlic and bacon) and beef Bourguignon (a special stew). Also includes local produce such as Diot sausage, quenelles de brochet à la sauce Nantua (a butter of crayfish sauce which accompanies poultry dishes) and Belley pâté. Cheese is another obsession in Ain, the best brands being Tomme de Belley, Bleu de Gex and Ramequin du Bugey.

Ease of access

Although there's no international airport in Ain itself, one good option for travellers outside France is Lyon's Saint-Exupéry International Airport, which holds links to British Airways and easyJet. Ain has a decent rail network, with connections on the TGV line facilitating travel to major French cities.

If you're travelling around by car, be warned that the terrain can be mountainous towards the east.

Value for money

There are plenty of places to stay for reasonable prices in Ain. The quality of the accommodation is not as high as other parts of France, so double check the accommodation before you confirm your booking.

Summary

Due to its location, Ain is blessed with good skiing and hiking opportunities for the tourist, not to mention excellent food and drink. That said, the area is not as well equipped for tourism as other parts of France and, if you're looking for great architecture and high culture, there are plenty of better options.