Introduction
Calvados is a department in the north west of France, and lies in the lower region of Normandy, called 'Basse Normandie'. Known for its apple brandy and D-Day beaches, the area is rich in history. The coast stretches along an area of the English Channel called the Baie de Seine.
The department has a population of 648,000, and covers an area of 5548km2. Its proximity to the south of England and convenient ferry links between the two countries make it a popular tourist area.
History
The department is named after the Salvador – a ship returning to Spain after the Armada in 1588. As it sailed through Normandy waters, it hit rocks and sank. After adopting this vessel's name, this stretch of coast became known as 'Calvados'.
It was during the French Revolution, in 1790, that Calvados was officially named as one of France's 83 original departments.
Historically, the region is most notable for its role in the D-Day landings of the Battle of Normandy in World War II. This took place in 1944, when Allied forces fought Nazi Germany for control of Normandy, and was code-named Operation Overlord. Normandy beaches saw air attacks and bombardment from the sea, and were also known by code names – Gold, Sword, Omaha and Juno.
Major cities
- Bayeux
- Caen
- Vire
- Lisieux
- Clecy
- Falaise
- Deauville
- Trouville
Weather
The climate of Calvados is not unlike that of southern England – it is only a few miles away. The driest months are July and August, and the most rain tends to fall between September and January.
Average temperature in Normandy| Period | Celsius |
|---|
| January | 7.6 |
| February | 6.4 |
| March | 8.4 |
| April | 13.0 |
| May | 14.0 |
| June | 20.0 |
| July | 21.6 |
| August | 22 |
| September | 18.2 |
| October | 14.5 |
| November | 10.8 |
| December | 7.9 |
Beaches
Normandy beaches have something to offer even those visitors who can think of nothing worse than getting sand in their socks – the D-Day landing sites. Courseulles sur Mer is home to the Juno Beach Centre, which commemorates the World War II D-Day landings. Juno is located between Sword and Gold beaches, lying between St Aubin sur Mer to Courseulles sur Mer. It is known as the Canadian beach, because it was the Canadian liberation forces who landed there in 1944.
Beaches for paddling, swimming and relaxing are plentiful along this stretch of coast, known as the Cote Fleurie – the Flowery Coast. Cabourg offers a sandy beach and promenade, and originated as a 19th century bathing resort. Houlgate also has a prom, sandy beach and a casino (many of these seaside towns follow this trend) and also boasts views of les Vaches Noires (the Black Cows) – cliffs running between Houlgate and Villers sur Mer.
Deauville and Trouville are chic but expensive casino towns on the Cote Fleurie, which both boast long stretches of sandy beach. Trouville is a quaint fishing village, whereas Deauville, arguably the more exclusive of the two, is home to racecourses, as well as a marina.
Tourist sites
The Bayeaux Tapestry is a 70 metre-long depiction of the 1066 Battle of Hastings. The impressive stretch of fabric was embroidered in commemoration of the battle, and is now on display in a museum in Bayeaux. Historical commentary is available in several languages.
Caen has a host of tourist attractions including the Museum of Normandy. Located near the 12th century St George's Chapel, the museum is an interesting visit for those who want to discover the history of the culture of Normandy.
The ruins of William the Conqueror's home, Castle Bonneville, lie in the valley of the River Touques, just downstream from the port of the same name. Visitors can enjoy tours around the ruins during summer months.
If you would prefer to be guided through the various points of interest in Calvados, so that you do not miss anything, follow one of the department's five tourist routes.
Family entertainment
If it takes more than the Bayeaux Tapestry, D-Day landing beaches and natural park of Cotentin to entertain your family, head for Honfleur. After enjoying the atmosphere of the picture perfect fishing harbour, go butterfly watching at the Naturospace Equatorial. The tropical gardens are home to over a hundred species from Africa, Asia and America.
Girafou, a theme park for two to 12 year olds, has plenty to keep youngsters amused all day long. Adults are admitted free of charge to this leisure park in Benouville, and entry for children is less than 8 euros.
Food and drink
Normandy is rich in speciality delicacies, and Calvados is no exception. Meat-lovers should be sure to sample Vire's famous andouille – a sausage based on pig's intestine, perhaps an acquired taste!
Maybe more appealing is the Normandy tart, made from local apples and short, thin pastry.
To the west of the department, Isigny sur Mer is famous for its creamy dairy products, including cheese. The Auge area also produces soft cheeses renowned throughout the world, including Camembert.
Walking
Leave the car at your gite and do your body and your environment a favour – not to mention giving your senses a treat as you explore the varied landscape of Calvados, from plains around Caen to the undulating hills and valleys elsewhere.
A fairly short walk with impressive views of les Vaches Noires cliffs can be enjoyed at low tide between Houlgate and Villers sur Mer. This is between five and six kilometers.
Other activities
You have come to the right place if you want to try your hand at a range of outdoor activities. The affluent harbours of Calvados, including picturesque Deauville, are home to yachts and sailing boats. Cabourg and Port de Courseulles sur Mer and La Solitaire Afflelou le Figaro are other pleasure harbours in the region.
If you prefer your sports a little drier, but just as competitive, beat your handicap on one of Calvados's dozen golf courses, varying from nine holes to 27, and ranging in difficulty too.
Other possibilities for active types include canoeing/kayaking at Club de Plein Air in Verson, fishing (try Vedettes Caennaises, Pericentre III in Caen) and jet skiing (on offer at Ouistreham-based Magic Jet). Or if you want to try something a bit different, you could always learn to 'wakeboard' - a water sport that combines water skiing, snow boarding and surfing! On offer at Wake Up in Ranville, between Caen and Ouistreham.
Wine tasting
Unusually for France, Normandy is not an area which prides itself on its vineyards and wine production. Calvados is most readily associated with the apple brandy that takes its name from the region. Apples and pears are grown for cider and liqueurs.
Ease of access
Normandy is well-served by ferry routes from the south of England. Cherbourg is accessible from Poole and Portsmouth. Brittany Ferries link Portsmouth to Caen – very convenient for Calvados. You can also sail from Portsmouth to Le Havre, which has recently become more accessible to the rest of Normandy, with the opening of the Pont de Normandie which links Le Havre to Honfleur. Weather permitting, hovercrafts travel between Newhaven and Dieppe. The main ferry operators include Brittany Ferries, P&O and Condor.
Value for money
As a rule, the cost of living in Calvados and its neighbouring Normandy departments is very reasonable. Supermarkets and local markets offer food at bargain prices, and the cost of wine in particular, is much lower in supermarkets in France than in the UK. Eating out can also be good value – particularly if you opt for a set menu in a restaurant. Accommodation can also be very reasonable. Gites in particular are often very good value, especially if you are holidaying with a large group.
Summary
Calvados is very easily accessible to Brits, and therefore welcomes an annual deluge of tourists. Despite this, the area has remained unspoiled. Lush green scenery, chic seaside resorts, picturesque fishing harbours and vast D-Day landing beaches are among the unique attractions of the proud department.
