Introduction
Cantal lies at the heart of France, a sparsely populated department of the Auvergne region where neither tourism nor industry have made great inroads. The vistas are wide in this volcanic landscape, where cows graze on the high plateaux and you get the feeling nothing has changed for centuries. The department has a very rural feel, and produces the celebrated Cantal cheese. Lace-making and tanning were formerly important economic activities, but recent decades have witnessed huge decline in the traditional industries. Youngsters head for Paris and the big cities in droves. There are consequently few towns, but plenty of unexpectedly pretty villages. This is a part of France for those who enjoy exploration and the unexpected.
History
Created during the French Revolution in 1790, Cantal is one of the four departments of the Auvergne. The name Cantal refers to the highest point of Auvergne's volcanic massif, the Plomb du Cantal. Cantal has a continuous archaeological record stretching far into prehistory, and numerous Stone Age remains are visible to this day. Medieval castles, churches and monasteries are widespread, attesting to the religious and political power struggles that blighted the region throughout the Middle Ages.
Major cities
Cantal has a population of just 150,000. Aurillac is the largest town by far, with 30,000 inhabitants. The only other notable centres of population are Mauriac and St Flour.
Weather
Cantal's climate is influenced by the mountainous terrain, and characterised by moderate year-round temperatures and precipitation.
Maximum daily temperatures hover around 10 Celsius (50 Fahrenheit) from November to March, rising to a pleasant 20 to 25 Celsius (68 to 77 Fahrenheit) from June to late September. Rainfall is highest in late spring and late autumn.
Tourist attractions
Cantal harbours fairytale chateaux from the 12th-15th centuries. These are the wonderful stumpy-turreted castles capped with roofs like conical hats that you see in children's story books. The best examples are Alleuze, Anjony, Lavigne, Pesteil and Val.
The Monts du Cantal fall within the department, and form part of the Auvergne Volcanoes Regional Nature Park, a huge protected area, rich in wildlife and dramatic landscapes. There are several visitor centres throughout the park, and marked trails for exploring.
Join the throngs taking the cable car from Super-Lioran to the top of the Plomb du Cantal – at 1855m the views are quite something. This is the highest and most accessible of the three peaks that once formed one of the world's largest volcanoes, long since extinct.
Museums, galleries and culture
The Maison de la Faune in the town of Murat has an interesting collection of local fauna. This is a place worth visiting for the attractive location and fine buildings, built of dark-grey, local basalt rock. Many buildings date to the 15th century and the Romanesque church of Bredons is also worth a look.
The village of Anterrieux, 30km south of St Flour, is home to Le Musée de la Résistance d'Anterrieux, a museum dedicated to the resistance movement in this area during the Second World War. Guided tours of the village last thirty minutes, and introduce visitors to some of the sites where fighting took place, and the bullet-scarred buildings.
St Flour's Musee de la Haute-Auvergne has an intriguing collection of local musical instruments and furniture, while those with more interest in the natural world will enjoy the Volcano Museum in Aurillac, which explains the geological process behind the region's cones and craters. In August, Aurillac hosts an annual festival of street theatre, a week-long spectacle and a lively time to visit the town.
Shopping
Don't come to Cantal if you are looking for retail therapy. Outside of Aurillac, shopping is limited, though you may discover some gems in unlikely places. Aurillac was for many years a centre of umbrella production – why not buy a parapluie as a memento. Otherwise, try Cantal cheese as a souvenir or unusual pottery from the tiny hamlet of Chavagnac.
Skiing
The cable car taking tourists to the summit of the Plomb du Cantal in summer becomes a ski-lift in winter. Skiing is possible on the northern and western parts of the mountain, and you can base yourself at the Le Lioran resort. There are some 60km of runs (7 black, 15 red, 14 blue and 8 green) as well as a day care facility and ski school for kids. Snowshoeing and cross-country skiing are possible, and teams of huskies are on hand if you fancy a spot of dog-sledding.
Walking
Cantal is an excellent region for keen walkers, with two Grande Randonée routes (GR400 and GR4) crossing the department. These are quite demanding hikes, so you may prefer to try a Petite Randonée – 'a little walk' - rather than tackling the big ones. There are over 50 PR's, taking in the high mountain, forest and plateau environments, and you won't meet hordes of fellow walkers – away from the Plomb du Cantal, it is never busy even in the height of summer.
Other activities
An increasing number of horseriding trails are appearing in Cantal, many within the boundaries of the Nature Park. Other activities include cycling, canoeing and balloon flights from the aerodrome in Aurillac.
Food and drink
Food is good and hearty, based on vegetables, pork, beans and other basic ingredients. It's very tasty, with dishes like aligot (mashed potato blended with Cantal), fricandeau (pork pâté), and Tarte aux Myrtilles (a bilberry and batter tart) making a lasting impression. To wash it all down, the Entraygues et du Fel region of Cantal produces some good fresh, fruity wines which are little known outside the Auvergne.
Eating out is inexpensive, with plenty of restaurants offering menus for 10 euros.
Ease of access
Ryanair operates flights between Stansted and Rodez, 100km south of Aurillac. There are no other conveniently located airports with direct UK connections. You can fly with Air France via Paris to Clermont-Ferrand, a two hour drive (160km) from Aurillac.
The train is another option. Take the Eurostar to Paris, then head south to Clermont Ferrand, where you can catch an onward connection to Aurillac or St Flour. The journey time from Paris is 6 hours.
Road access is via Clermont-Ferrand, which has excellent connections to the rest of France via the four major motorways which converge there.
Value for money
Cantal is not a mainstream tourist area, and is therefore not an expensive destination. Most attractions involve the natural environment, so you won't need to shell out much for entry fees and tickets. Staying in self-catering accommodation and eating in local places, you only need budget 50 euros per person per day.
Summary
There's not a great deal to do in Cantal, but somehow this fails to detract from the department's appeal. The highlights are the volcanic landscapes, unchanged way of life and lack of crowds. A good destination for a relaxing week or two, for those who prefer to take their holidays somewhere not too busy, not too hot and not too well known.
