Introduction

Located right at the heart of the country and part of the Centre region, Cher is really an area for those who want to get away from it all – the busy cities, the large crowds and even the tourists! – and experience the more tranquil side of life in France.

Major cities

One of France's more sparsely populated areas, with just 314,428 inhabitants (according to a 1999 census) across a considerable land area of 7,235 km². The largest city by some distance is the prefecture of Bourges, and the following are also significant communes:

• Saint-Amand-Montrond
• Vierzon
• Avord
• Aubigny-sur-Nère
• Sancerre

History

Forged from the ancient province of Berry, Cher was one of the 83 departments established in March 1790 during the French Revolution. Although lacking an especially glamorous past, the department has played its part in history on occasion. Indeed, at one time, the department was the only remaining bastion of French authority in the north, as Charles VII took sanctuary in Bourges after defeat by Henry V at Agincourt.

This intermittent role in major historical events has done little to damage Cher's cultural clout either, largely due to the repute of Bourges as one of the main areas for the study of alchemy during the Middle Ages. Even today, despite Cher's sleepy and bland façade, there is much to be absorbed and enjoyed by the visitor looking for something a little more low-key.

Weather

Cher's climate is best described as pseudo-maritime due to its central location, with slightly cooler summers than the south of France but, unsurprisingly, milder and calmer winters than the north of France. Bourges is representative of average quarterly temperatures:

Average temperature in Orléans

Period	Celsius	Fahrenheit
January-March	5	41
April-June	13	55
July-September	18	64
October-December	8	46

Tourist attractions

Without doubt, the most important monument in Cher is the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Bourges. Classified a UNESCO World Heritage site, the cathedral is one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in France and the first cathedral of that particular era. Built between 1195 and 1270, the façade is largely based on Notre-Dame in Paris and is lit up by the Great Tower, a replica of the Louvre Tower. However, this is countered by a unique interior highlighted by the many stained glass windows depicting various biblical scenes, built between the 12th and 13th centuries, and the 15th century astronomical clock. Not to forget the crypt, which is home to the statue of Jean de Berry and permits access to the north tower, providing picturesque views of Bourges.

Also found in Bourges is the Palace of Jacques Coeur. Built over the course of the early 15th century by Coeur himself, a merchant who acted as the Dauphin Charles VII's financial advisor, the façade is a fine example of Renaissance styling, replete with Gallo-Roman murals. The interior is a different affair though: on the one hand it contains the tomb of Jean de Berry (a pivotal figure in the region); on the other, in an exceptionally forward thinking move, latrines were also installed.

Continuing the Renaissance-theme, the city contains the Hôtel Lallement, a beautiful building in its own right, which also houses the Musée des Arts Décoratifs (imbued with 17th and 18th century works of art and 16th and 17th century tapestries and pottery).

Outside of Bourges, another must-see edifice is the Château de Culan in Culan. Certified as a Historical Monument by the government, it is one of the oldest occupied castles in the world, dating back to the 12th century, and with famous visitors such as Joan of Arc, Charles de Gaulle and Louis XI. Similarly, Montrond Fortress in Saint-Amand-Montrond, largely developed during the 17th century, is well worth a glance.

Acknowledged as 'one of the most beautiful villages in France' by the organisation of the same name, Apremont-sur-Allier is a fitting attraction for a department like Cher. With a population of approximately 100 denizens, don't expect too much activity, but you'll find the 13th century Château d'Apremont a particular delight.

Family entertainment

There is little in the way of obvious activities and family days out in Bourges. Among the few options are horse riding at the Centre Équestre-Poney Club Le Rio Javar in Saint-Amand-Montond, a boat ride down the Canal de Berry and ice-skating in Bourges.

Museums, galleries and culture

Bourges has a plethora of interesting museums within its proverbial city walls. Arguably the best is the Musée du Berry, situated in the 16th century Hôtel Cujas and focusing on the province's history from its Etruscan roots to the present day. Also impressive are the Musée des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France, a collection of arts and crafts representing the victors in the eponymous national competition, and the Musée de Maurice Estève, an art gallery dedicated to this prominent local artist.

There are a number of other municipal museums and galleries in Cher, such as the Musée Saint Vic in Saint-Amand-Montrond, an all-in-one repository of art, local history and archaeology, and the Musée des Four Banaux in Vierzon, looking more closely at the city's medieval past.

Undoubtedly the best festival in the year is Les Printemps de Bourges, a very popular music festival typically held in April. Past acts include Arctic Monkeys and Franz Ferdinand.

Shopping

You can expect all manner of local markets throughout Cher. However, for true high-street shopping, the best place is unquestionably Bourges, marketed as the home of 'Les Mille et Une Boutiques'.

Walking

With the possible exception of Forêt Domaniale in Vierzon, hiking enthusiasts will be sadly disappointed in Cher. Sadly, relaxing strolls in places like the Parc Floral in Apremont-sur-Allier, the gardens of the Château de Culan and Gibjones Landscaped Garden in Bourges are the only option available.

Golf

There are five courses in the department. These are Bourges Golf Club in Bourges, Golf de Nançay in Nançay, Golf du Sancerrois in Sancerre, Golf de la Picardière in Vierzon and Golf de la Vallée de Germigny in St-Ilaire-de-Gondilly.

Wine-tasting

Cher's contribution to Loire Valley wine-production is confined to the commune of Sancerre. Devastated by phylloxera in the 19th century, Sancerre's vineyards were replanted and now produce a range of whites (the Sancerre white has AOC standing and is produced in 15 villages) and rosés, as well as their famous Pinot Noir reds.

Food and drink

Goat's cheese varieties can be found across the department and the Loire Valley region, such as Crottin de Chavignol. Indeed, the menus of Cher's restaurants will generally focus on regional produce like freshwater fish from the Loire and the Cher rivers, all types of game and an array of stews (including some made with pigs trotters!).

Ease of access

If you're coming from outside France, there are a few options available. You can either brave Bourges Airport or, for a better choice of airlines, plump for Charles de Gaulle International Airport in Paris (roughly 2 hours from Cher) or Tours Loire Valley Airport.

Once inside Cher, the terrain makes getting around by car relatively easy, and the rail network also facilitates quick travel from commune to commune.

Value for money

Prices for property in Cher are going up, but the range of accommodation is not especially good. In Bourges, for example, you will only find a few 3-star hotels at best. This sets the standard for other communes like Saint-Amand-Montrond. That said, prices are quite reasonable, with a double room in a 2-star hotel average around 35-40 Euros per night.

Summary

With the exception of the cathedral, Cher lacks all the obvious selling points for tourists. Anyone looking for skiing, hiking or activities should really consider alternatives. However, if you want some peace and quiet, Cher may be a good option for holidaymakers, giving you a taste of life around the Loire Valley.