Introduction
Deux-Sèvres, French department number 79, is one of four that comprise Poitou Charentes in western France. Though close to the Atlantic – just 50km separate the coast from the capital, Niort - Deux-Sèvres is landlocked. The name, meaning 'two Sèvres', stems from two rivers which rise here: the Sèvre Niortaise and the Sèvre Nantaise. This is certainly a watery region, nowhere more so than in the marshland of the Marais Poitevin, the wetter part of which has become known as the 'Green Venice' thanks to its canals. This is one of the region's natural treasures, protected since 1975. Even among the granite boulders of the unspoilt Gatine Hills, you'll never be more than 272m above sea level, and Deux Sevres as a whole is a peaceful, green region of woods and lakes, where the views stretch for miles.
History
The administrative boundaries of Deux-Sèvres were drawn in 1790, during the French Revolution. Prior to this, during the 16th and 17th centuries, the area was a stronghold of the Huguenots. These French protestants suffered severe reprisals, and many left the region, fleeing to England and the low countries. In earlier times, Niort was an important Gallo-Roman town, then known as Novioritum, and several Roman roads and bridges survive throughout the department. By the 9th century, Deux-Sèvres was at the mercy of the Norman invasions, being close to the Atlantic coast.
More recently, the department has fared well in major conflicts, largely unaffected by the two World Wars that ravaged other parts of France in the 20th century. Finally, animal lovers will be saddened to hear that France's last wolves were killed in Deux-Sevres, in 1927.
Major cities
- Niort
- Melle
- Parthenay
- Bressuire
- Thouars
Weather
Thanks to the nearby Atlantic, Deux-Sèvres enjoys a mild climate, escaping the sultry summers found further inland. Spring comes early, with an average maximum temperature for March of 14 degrees Celsius (57 Fahrenheit). Rainfall is lower in the north and moderate elsewhere - 800 mm (31 inches) per year. Deux-Sèvres gets a whopping 2000 hours of sunshine every year, so a sunny stay is pretty much guaranteed. For more detail on weather and climate, check out Meteo France.
Tourist attractions
Thousands of tourists are drawn to the Marais Poitevin every year. It's a fascinating landscape created by the clever use of dykes and channels. The 'Green Venice' is best explored in a flat-bottomed boat or canoe, and there are landing stages allowing exploration on foot. This protected area offers abundant wildlife and great birdwatching. Getting lost in the minor channels is half the fun, but if you prefer not to travel on the water, a tourist train known as 'Le Pibalo' allows you to explore the marshes from a drier vantage point.
Family entertainment
Parthenay holds an annual festival of games and toys which is well worth a visit. A 30 minute drive from Niort, the town is transformed into a place of competition, laughter and excitement which is guaranteed to appeal to kids.
A visit to the silver mines at Melle makes a great day out. The inexpensive entry ticket buys you a guided tour of the mines, which have been in use since the 6th century. Demonstrations of smelting and coin-minting are also included.
Close to Melle and Niort, in the Chizé Forest, lies the Zoodyssee wildlife park. Badgers, otters and lynx are among the sixty species resident in the park, which provides a wealth of information about European fauna as well as letting you get a close view of some very rare creatures.
Museums, galleries and culture
The historic city of Niort deserves exploration, in particular the 14th century église Notre-Dame, and several other historic monuments. Opened in 2006, Niort's state-of-the-art Musée Bernard d'Agesci houses a great collection of both fine art and natural history. Thouars is home to a museum focusing on the French resistance movement - 'La Resistance' - and the geology of the pays Thouarsais. Several buildings dating back to the 11th century also make the town itself worthy of a visit.
Shopping
There are weekly markets throughout the region, but those at Parthenay and Bressuire are particularly renowned for meat. Melle has an excellent shop selling local crafts and artwork, as well as regional produce including honey, liqueurs and chocolate coated angelica.
Niort has plenty of outlets for a more usual high street experience, with shops arranged around little courtyards and a pedestrianised zone in the historic centre, allowing you to mix shopping with sightseeing.
Walking
Deux-Sèvres offers some beautiful walking – the Marais Poitevin being particularly suited to care free itineraries, thanks to a network of traffic-free paths. Three long-distance GR paths cross the department, and the pilgrim route of St James also passes through the pays Mellois. You could join the local equivalent of the ramblers on an organised outing, check their calendar for details.
Golf
The department has three very reasonably priced golf courses, open all year. To find out what is on offer, visit the website of Golf Niort.
Other activities
Cycle touring in Deux-Sèvres is a dream come true, with quiet back roads, flat terrain, delicious food and plenty of campsites. Either take your own bike with you, buy a map and simply pedal away, or you can book an organised cycling package.
Rock climbing is popular on the granite cliffs of the Argenton Valley. The best climbing is near the town of Argenton-Château, with hundreds of routes, graded from 4 to 7 on offer. You could combine a spot of rock climbing with a canoeing trip along the Argenton or Thouet rivers.
Fishing is possible on many rivers, but perhaps the best location for both novice and expert anglers is Pescalis. The first international fishing centre in Europe, Pescalis combines a holiday village and several fishing lakes in a 150 hectare site at Moncoutant, close to the town of Bressuire. Ideal for a family holiday.
Food and drink
Compared to the neighbouring, wine-producing regions of Charentes and the Loire Valley, Deux-Sèvres is not renowned for its vintages. Nonetheless, the department's 263 hectares of vines produce quaffable local wines perfect for washing down local delicacies like Cabri de Parthenay goat cheese. Also on the menu are tender beef and veal from Parthenay and Bressuire, and Fricassee d'anguilles, a dish of eels cooked in garlic. Brioche and Tarte aux pruneaux (prune tart), make delectable desserts. Niort is a centre of production for angelica, so be sure to try some.
Ease of access
Deux-Sèvres has no international airport, so the best option is to fly to nearby Poitiers or La Rochelle on Ryanair from London Stansted. La Rochelle is also served by FlyBe, with flights from five UK aiports.
To reach Deux-Sèvres by train from the UK, take the Eurostar to Paris then catch one of the 15 daily services from Paris Montparnasse to Niort, a journey of 2h 15m.
Value for money
Deux-Sèvres is not an expensive destination, with low entry fees for many visitor attractions. Much of the department's appeal lies in natural surroundings and wildlife which can be enjoyed for free. Travel on a budget flight or buy an advance train ticket and it won't break the bank, and accommodation and eating out are good value for money. Even in the height of summer, a week's car hire is a cost-effective way to enjoy the area, while bike hire is similarly priced if you fancy something a bit more energetic.
Summary
Deux-Sèvres is a hidden French gem, with pleasant, historic towns and great opportunities for wildlife watching and outdoor activities. The lack of beaches might be a downside for some, but the coast is only 50km away if you fancy a day trip, while the lakes and rivers offer plenty of inland aquatic fun minus the salt and sand.
