Introduction

Located in the far east of France as part of the Alsace region, Haut-Rhin lives somewhat in the shadow of its more illustrious counterpart Bas-Rhin on the River Rhine. However, the department is still a lively, diverse and culture-filled area which will appeal to anyone and everyone.

Major cities

Haut-Rhin is rather densely populated, with a population of well over 700,000 residing across a land area of just 3,525km². Although the prefecture is Colmar, the largest city in the department is actually Mulhouse. Other important communes include the following:

• Altkirch
• Guebwiller
• Ribeauvillé
• Thann
• Issenheim
• Kaysersberg
• Munster
• Sainte-Marie-aux-Mines
• Saint-Louis

History

In contrast to much of France, the recorded history of the Haut-Rhin territory only dates back to the early medieval period. Absorbed into France over the course of the 17th century and fully formed as a department in March 1790 during the French Revolution, the territory's history has been dominated by disputes over borders and ownership.

Initially, Haut-Rhin enjoyed a period of expansion into Switzerland with the absorption first of Mulhouse in 1798 (then a free city) and Mont-Terrible two years later. However, the 19th century would prove far more tumultuous, as France's defeat in the Franco-Prussian War in 1871 saw practically all of the department fall under German control (the remaining segment being brought into the Territoire de Belfort). Regained in 1919 with victory in World War I, history would repeat itself in 1940 with Nazi Germany's annexation of northern France, before the balance was yet again redressed four years later.

Now Haut-Rhin enjoys far more prosperity than instability, and the department is actually one of the richest in France. Nevertheless, the influence of Germany and Switzerland is still evident, with some 39% of the population still using Alsatian (a Low Alemannic German dialect) and many citizens, particularly in Durlinsdorf, actually working in Switzerland. Such a mix of cultures only heightens the appeal to visitors though, with the department's cuisine, wine and sights providing a truly unique experience.

Weather

Haut-Rhin's climate is pseudo-continental, with very pleasant summers generally followed by dry winters (Colmar is actually the driest city in France, with an annual precipitation of just 550mm). Mulhouse is representative of average quarterly temperatures:

Average temperature in Mulhouse

Period	Celsius	Fahrenheit
January-March	4	39
April-June	14	57
July-September	18	64
October-December	7	44

Tourist attractions

As the department's capital, Colmar is home to many of Haut-Rhin's finest sights. Religious architecture is naturally significant in this regard, with the Église Dominicans a notable example. Built in 1346, the church's lovely façade is matched inside by the 15th century masterpiece by Martin Schongauer, Madonna of the Roses. Also well worth a visit are the 13th century Église Saint Matthieu and the 12th century Église Saint-Pierre, not to forget the 13th-16th century Collégiale Saint-Martin, typically known as the cathedral and highlighted by exceptional stained glass. Beyond religious structures, the city is awash with beautiful Renaissance and Gothic-style abodes, along with quainter areas like La Petite Venise (Little Venice) and its oddly coloured stream of cottages.

Mulhouse also contains a number of noteworthy edifices. The best of these is the Hôtel de Ville, completed in 1553 in Renaissance-style and remarkable for the numerous trompe l'oeil paintings and frescoes covering the interior.

There is much to see outside the two main cities as well, such as St. Léger Church in Guebwiller, built in the 12th century with beautiful pink sandstone and a mix of Romanesque and Gothic design. Similarly, La Collégiale Saint-Thiébaut in Thann is a fine Gothic church, built between the 13th and 15th centuries, and topped off by a 78 metre-high spire. Therefore, while Haut-Rhin lacks the more famous works of architecture found in Strasbourg, there is a great deal to see and many hidden treasures to be discovered from commune to commune.

Family entertainment

As well as the full array of sporting facilities in cities like Mulhouse, there are a number of good options for a family day out. These include the Musée Animé du Jouet et des Petits Train in Colmar, a fantastic toy museum which also specialises in toy trains, and the Zoological and Botanical Garden in Mulhouse, home to some 1200 animals.

Museums, galleries and culture

Haut-Rhin is packed with many outstanding museums. Arguably the best all-round repository is the Musée d'Unterlinden in Colmar. Located in a former convent, one can find sections on archaeology and local history. There is also a fantastic art gallery, home to works by Picasso and the incredible Issenheim Altarpiece by Matthias Grünewals (a Haut-Rhin native). Also to be found in Colmar is the Musée Bartholdi, established in tribute to the life and work of the native Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi, most famous as the architect of the Statue of Liberty.

Not to be outdone, Mulhouse contains two fine museums. The first, and perhaps most famous, of these is the Musée National de l'Automobile de Mulhouse, home to the Schlumpf collection of cars. This includes the largest collection of Bugattis in the world (one prestige piece being a Type 41 Royale, worth over £5 million) as well as an array of famous automobiles by Mercedes-Benz, Maserati, Ferrari and Porsche. The other nationally-recognised museum is the Musée Français du Chemin de Fer, the main railway museum in France, focusing heavily on the technology of the train.

To prove it's not all strictly educational, there are a number of festivals and events held each year, such as the Mulhouse and Colmar Jazz Festivals in August and May respectively, and the Mulhouse International Carnival between February and March.

Shopping

The old town of Colmar around the rue des Marchands and the new town of Mulhouse are both good places to start if you're looking for local crafts and a bit of high street shopping. However, there are a number of good markets such as Mulhouse's Marché du Canal Couvert in the rue Franklin, serving up all types of local and regional produce, and the Saturday market in Ribeauvillé's rue de la Première Armée. There are also two major Christmas markets in Mulhouse and Colmar.

Walking

A substantial portion of the department is incorporated within the Parc Régional des Ballons des Vosges and there are a number of signposted trails in Haut-Rhin. The most famous path for hikers is the Route des Crêtes, built strategically during World War One, it starts in Cernay and passes through forests and over high peaks to the destination of Sainte-Marie-aux-Mines. In the winter, it's even converted into a cross-country skiing route.

Other, less taxing, options include the Mulhouse Botanical Gardens and the Butterflies Garden in Hunawihr.

Golf

There are 6 courses in Haut-Rhin, including Alsace Golf Club in Rouffach, Golf Club des Bouleaux in Wittelsheim, Golf de la Large in Seppois Le Bas and Bâle Golf and Country Club in Hagenthal-le-Bas.

Wine-tasting

The winemaking industry in Alsace focuses predominantly on whites, with excellent produce from the Riesling, Sylvaners and Gewürztraminer grapes. There is also a 170 kilometre 'road of the wines of Alsace', reflecting the importance of wine production in the region. Haut-Rhin's specific contribution to this industry can be seen in the many vineyards around the Ribeauvillé and Riquewihr area, as well as the Rangen vineyard in Thann and the other grand cru (an AOC classification indicating the production of higher quality wines) spots around Colmar.

Food and drink

The Germanic influence on Alsace is no better shown than in the regional cuisine, which will be found all across Haut-Rhin. This includes specialities like sauerkraut (pickled cabbage, found frequently as part of choucroute with a range of meats and potatoes), baeckoffe (potato and meat hotpot prepared specially with wine) and tarte flambée (a thinly spread dough base covered with crème fraîche, onions and bacons).

One particularly famous contribution from Haut-Rhin is Munster cheese from the commune of the same name. You'll also find a number of delicious sweets like the pastry Kougelhopf.

Ease of access

Should you travel from outside France, the best options are either Strasbourg Airport, connected to London-Gatwick through Air France with a train line to Colmar, or Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg International Airport in Saint-Louis, holding links with British Airways and easyJet. The TER Alsace regional train line connects up the region and much of the department, while the generally decent road network is dominated by the A35, A4 and A36 autoroutes.

Value for money

The cost of accommodation reflects what you can expect in general as far as prices go in Haut-Rhin. The biggest determining factor in this regard is where you choose to stay, as you'll find hostels, hotels, gites, bed and breakfasts and campsites regardless. Mulhouse is generally more expensive and it can be as much as 230 Euros for a double room at a 3-star hotel per night.

Conversely, the hotel accommodation in Colmar can be as low as 40 to 50 Euros for a double room in a 3-star hotel. However, if you'd prefer to stay outside the major centres, another option is Ribeauvillé.

Summary

Although it lacks the recognised places of interest found in the neighbouring Bas-Rhin, Haut-Rhin is nevertheless a very pleasant place for holidaymakers and people interested in property investment abroad. The distinctive culture, the fine food and drink and the excellent countryside make it a genuine option for anyone interested in experiencing a different (but not too different) kind of France.