Introduction
The department of Haute-Loire lies to the south of central France. It is named after the Loire, the longest river in the country, which flows through it on its way from the Cévennes highlands to the Atlantic. Home to some 215,000 inhabitants, Haute-Loire is – even more than the rest of the Auvergne region – comparatively poor due to the decline of agriculture and its ageing population.
Auvergne is part of the Massif Central, the large, mountainous region in south-central France. Although there is not much in the way of typical tourist attractions (the department is fairly empty of visitors as a result), the area is perfect for nature lovers and outdoor sports. Four villages in the department, Arlempdes, Blesle, Lavaudieu and Pradelles, have been listed among the 'Most Beautiful Villages in France'.
History
Like many other departments, Haute-Loire came into existence in 1790, during the French Revolution. It was formed out of parts of the former provinces of Languedoc, Lyonnais and Auvergne.
In the middle ages, Haute-Loire's capital, Le Puy, was a major centre of Christianity.
Major cities
- Le Puy-en-Velay
- Brioude
- La Chaise-Dieu
- Chambon-sur-Lignon
- Saugues
Weather
Summers in Haute-Loire tend to be clear and hot. Rainfall can be fairly heavy the rest of the season, with heavy rain and thunderstorms common in higher areas.
Normal temperature range in Haute-Loire| Month | Celsius | Fahrenheit |
|---|
| January | -2 to 5 | 28 to 41 |
| February | -2 to 8 | 28 to 46 |
| March | 1 to 11 | 34 to 52 |
| April | 3 to 14 | 37 to 57 |
| May | 7 to 18 | 44 to 64 |
| June | 10 to 22 | 50 to 72 |
| July | 12 to 25 | 54 to 77 |
| August | 12 to 25 | 54 to 77 |
| September | 8 to 21 | 46 to 70 |
| October | 6 to 15 | 43 to 59 |
| November | 2 to 10 | 36 to 50 |
| December | -1 to 6 | 30 to 43 |
Attractions
Auvergne is not as popular with tourists as the surrounding regions and contains few of the attractions for which France is most famous.
Lavaudieu is named as the department's most beautiful village, famed for its Romanesque cloister and displays of hanging baskets of geraniums in the summer.
For families with young children, the Parc de Loisirs de l'Ile d'Amour at Langeac has a beach, tennis courts, miniature golf and a canoeing centre. Further north, not far from Clairmont-Ferrand, Vulcania, a Volcano-themed park with over 30 different attractions, is suitable for all the family and worth a full day's visit. The area is also full of thermal spa towns.
Culture
The sanctuary town of Le Puy-en-Velay is built around 3 lava peaks. It is known as the City of the Black Madonna due to the many statues found around it carved from walnut and cedar, said to be brought back from Palestine by crusaders. It was a frequent destination for pilgrims in the middle ages.
La Chaise-Dieu has a Romanesque-Gothic church with an ivory statue of Jesus. An unusual feature, found behind the tapestries and cloister, is an 'echo room'. This was designed so that people whispering in opposite corners could hear each other – an arrangement that allowed priests to hear confessions from lepers in times when the disease was commonplace. The town holds a yearly classical and sacred music festival in August.
10 km east of Brioude is the Museum Arts et Traditions Populaires de la Haute-Loire, which recreates the life of 19th century villagers.
Wine
Auvergne is one of the oldest wine-growing areas in the country, but its wines are not well-known outside the region (something especially true of Haute-Loire). The climate is not conducive to producing meatier reds and they consequently tend to be light and fruity. Whites also tend to be light.
Skiing
Most snow falls in the region between January and March. Skiing is popular in the area around Le Puy-en-Velay, particularly cross-country skiing. Les Estables is just south-east of Le Puy and offers slopes suitable for all levels.
Walking
The mountainous region is ideal for walking and there are many footpaths through the mountains. The landscape in Haute-Loire is slightly flatter than in the surrounding area, affording panoramic views of the scenery.
Golf
Golf du Chambon-sur-Lignon is regarded as one of the most beautiful and difficult courses in France. Situated at the foot of Mount Mézenc and the Lizieux Volcano, the 18-hole course is open from 31 March to 11 November.
Golf de Puy-en-Velay is a 9-hole course around 2 miles west of the city.
Other activities
Trails criss-cross the dormant volcanoes of the regionand offer a cycling experience that few have experienced. The pûys (volcanic stubs) are used as take-off platforms and the thermals formed in the rocky terrain make the department a popular choice for hang-gliding and para-gliding.
Food and drink
Haute-Loire is well-known for its Cantal cheese (which was so loved by Napoleon that he named his favourite horse after it). Due to the high rainfall and nature of the mountainous terrain, Volvic and other mineral waters are major exports. Le Puy is famous for its green lentils and Verveine, a green liqueur flavoured with Verbena.
Ease of access
There are daily flights (except at the weekends) from Paris to Le Puy/Loudes airport.
By road, Haute-Loire is around 3 hours south of Paris on the A71 motorway, or 2 hours south-west of Lyon on E70 and N88.
Value for money
The department is one of the poorest in France and is considerably cheaper than elsewhere.
Summary
Haute-Loire is a quiet, agricultural department that is well off the beaten track for most tourists. It is one of the most beautiful areas of rural France that will be of most interest to those keen on outdoor pursuits such as walking and mountain biking.
