Introduction
Named after the Vienne River, Haute-Vienne is located in the centre-west of the country and part of the Limousin region. A modest, predominantly rural department, it's slowly gaining some repute with tourists and property investors looking for a tranquil part of France.
Major cities
With under 400,000 denizens across a land area of 5,520km2, Haute-Vienne is by no means densely populated. The largest city by some distance is the prefecture of Limoges, with the following communes also noteworthy:
- Bellac
- Rochechouart
- Chalus
- Oradour-sur-Glane
- Saint-Léonard-de-Noblat
- Saint-Yrieix-la-Perche
History
Despite evidence of human activity as far back as 3500 BC, the recorded history of the territory dates back to the Roman era. Julius Caesar's triumph over Gaul, and the Augustan period of the late 1st century BC following Caesar's fall saw the establishment, development and colonisation of Haute-Vienne's foundations (although the department itself was only founded in 1790).
Generally out of the limelight, some parts of the department did garner a measure of repute. Limoges, for example, was considered a cultural and artistic centre during the 13th century due to the Abbey of St. Martial. Moreover, Haute-Vienne has provided some key cultural figures such as the painter Pierre-Auguste Renoir.
Considering the department's centuries of isolation, the 20th century was something of an exception. Limoges was a thriving centre of Resistance during World War II, fuelled in part by the 1944 massacre in Oradour-sur-Glane of 642 inhabitants by the Waffen SS. Indeed, the 'Maquis' underground movement eventually liberated the city. Such an example reflects the deep level of community in the department and, today, these qualities are making Haute-Vienne an increasingly popular place to invest in or visit.
Weather
Haute-Vienne's climate is best described as continental, but temperatures are generally milder than in neighbouring departments and the winters can be very cold, with snowfalls too. For a better idea of what to expect, take a look at the average quarterly temperatures in Limoges:
Average temperature in Limoges| Period | Celsius | Fahrenheit |
|---|
| January-March | 6 | 42 |
| April-June | 13 | 55 |
| July-September | 18 | 64 |
| October-December | 8 | 46 |
Tourist attractions
Religious architecture dominates as far as beautiful monuments go, many of which can be found in Limoges, like the Cathedral of St. Etienne. Built over a long period between 1273 and 1888, the current façade stands in Gothic style. The structure is highlighted by the octagonal bell tower, while the interior is notable for the fine Renaissance rood screen and the decorations on the tomb of the bishop Jean de Langeac, not to mention the many examples of Romanesque art.
Other notable churches include the Chapel of Saint-Aurélien, completed in the 17th century and housing the relics of the former bishop, the Chapel of Saint-Martial, only discovered in the 20th century, and the 16th century Church of Saint-Michel des Lions, which incorporates a 65 metre-high bell tower. Somewhat different stylistically, but equally worth a visit, is the 'Benedectine' Train Station, an Art Deco edifice constructed in the 1920s with sculptures and stained glass in the style.
Outside of Limoges, Rochechouart is a popular destination, largely due to the Château de Rochechouart. Built in the 13th century, this castle was the home of the Viscounts of Rochechouart for 800 years and is now a recognised Historical Monument, with a host of artworks and frescoes contained within. Also interesting is the Church of Saint Sauveur, one of the few Romanesque-designed churches and topped off by an octagonal tower and twisted spire.
Not to be outdone in the castle stakes, Chalus contains the Château de Chalus-Chabrol. Expanded in the 17th century beyond the original 13th century structure, it is famous as the site where Richard the Lionheart died in 1199, besieging the castle, and is now also classified as a Historical Monument. Such examples reflect the surprising level of culture on offer in Haute-Vienne.
Family entertainment
Haute-Vienne is not exactly activity packed but there are a few options. The Lake of Vassivière caters to water-sports and general beachside relaxation, while there are many angling opportunities on the 4 rivers which permeate Rochechouart. For a family day out, the Parc de Reynou in Le Vigen, which incorporates a zoo, is a great choice.
Museums, galleries and culture
Unquestionably the main museum in Haute-Vienne is the Musée de l'Émail in Limoges. Situated in the former Renaissance-style Bishop's Palace, it contains one of the largest collections of enamels in the world, along with some beautiful Impressionist works by Renoir and Gillaumin and an exhibition on Egyptian archaeology.
If that's not enough, try the Museum of Contemporary Art in the Château, which includes works by Raoul Hausmann and the sculptor Tony Cragg.
Shopping
Local craftworks in Haute-Vienne revolve around Limoges porcelain, developed from the white clay found in the kaolin rock in 1771, and hugely popular in the 19th century. Limoges is, unsurprisingly, the best place to shop as a result, and includes a covered market which supplies local produce.
Walking
There aren't a huge number of trails in Haute-Vienne, but perhaps the most interesting natural sight in the department is the Rochechouart Crater. 23 kilometres in diameter and approximately 214 million years old, it continues to puzzle geologists today. More conventional marked footpaths can be found in Rochechouart such as the Girondellas rambling route. See the tourist office in the rue Victor Hugo or contact ot-rochechouart-pays-de-la-meteorite@wanadoo.fr for further details.
Limoges contains a number of beautiful parks and gardens such as the Evêché Gardens (founded in the 18th century but rebuilt in 1976 with a particularly noteworthy botanical garden), the 'Champ de Juillet' (a Historical Monument in its own right) and the Victor Thuillat park, some 3.5 hectares in size.
Golf
There are 3 courses in Haute-Vienne. These are Golf de la Porcelaine in Panazol, Golf de Limoges and Golf de Saint-Junien.
Wine-tasting
The region of Limousin is not renowned for its wine production due to the poor soil quality, but you can find some wines from its oak forests and Branceilles.
Food and drink
Restaurants in Haute-Vienne will serve up regional Limousin specialities like pate de pommes de terre (a bread dough with potatoes and a garnish of garlic, parsley and bacon) and filet mignon de porc aux coings (the key ingredients being pork and quince). These are followed by special desserts such as clafoutis (black cherry flan).
Ease of access
Reaching Haute-Vienne is surprisingly easy due to Limoges-Bellegarde Airport, which is connected to London-Stansted and other major British cities via Ryanair and Flybe. Limoges is also connected to Paris on the train (a four-hour journey) and a generally decent rail and road network facilitates access to most of the main communes.
Value for money
Limoges is one of the most affordable cities for property investment within France, and holidays in the department are generally very economical. However, the range of accommodation does leave something to be desired, as reflected in the few hotels, gites and campsites in Rochechouart. That said, if you shop around, you could definitely find a bargain.
Summary
Haute-Vienne is growing in popularity with foreigners due to its tranquil countryside and provincial outlook. Therefore, if you're looking to explore beyond the obvious tourist hot spots, now is the time to visit the department. However, don't expect a lively holiday!
