Introduction
The Loir-et-Cher is in north central France and is named after the two rivers running through it. The Loir, somewhat confusingly, is a tributary of the more famous Loire.
History
In 1492 Joan of Arc rallied the French troops at Blois, the capital of the Loir-et-Cher, and led them to confront the English at Orleans (not itself part of the department). From the time of the Hundred Years War to the end of the 16th century, the French monarchs and their followers spent much of their time in the region, hence the number of châteaux. It is the only part of France never to have been occupied by foreign forces.
Major cities
- Blois
- Montrichard
- Vendome
Weather
Average temperature in the Loir-et-Cher| Period | Celsius | Fahrenheit |
|---|
| January-March | 1-8 | 34-46 |
| April-June | 8-18 | 46-64 |
| July-September | 12-24 | 54-75 |
| October-December | 3-10 | 37-50 |
Tourist attractions
The huge Château in Blois is architecturally a patchwork, with medieval, Gothic, Renaissance and classical parts to it. It is notable for its spiral staircase, its loggia overlooking the town and its Salle des Etats with its colourful (the purists might say garish) arches, pillars and fireplaces. There are son-et lumiere performances in English. The Church of St Nicholas, just below the Château, is also worth visiting as it is an excellent example of ecclesiastical architecture. 16 km downstream from Blois is the far less famous Château de Chaumont, complete with turrets, moat and drawbridge. Its interior dates from the early 19th century giving it a somewhat homely feel. There are superb Belle Epoque stables with porcelain troughs and elegant lamps, fitted at a time when the chateau itself did not have such luxuries. 15km south-east of Blois lies the Château de Cheverny, built of the local bourre stone which, because it lightens with age, gives it a pristine appearance. It has a magnificent display of paintings, furniture, tapestries and leatherwork. The Château at Chenonceau with its much-photographed reflection in the River Cher is one of the most beautiful and hence popular in France so get there early to avoid the crowds. The interior is impressive but the gardens are also exquisite and well worth spending time exploring. Vendome is an interesting old town with ramparts, attractive old houses and a Gothic church. The market town of Montrichard is well worth visiting with its medieval and Renaissance buildings and Romanesque church.
Family entertainment
Although many children will complain at having to tour the interiors of châteaux they will normally enjoy the grounds especially at Chenonceau where you can hire a rowing boat. If they are Tintin fans they will appreciate a visit to the Tintin Museum at the Château of Cheverny which was used by the creator of Tintin for his castle of Marlinspike. Close to Cheverny but just over the department's border is Fantasy Forest amusement park with acrobatic concourse, paintball and go-carts. The "beach" by the river at Montrichard is an excellent place for children to let off steam. As well as having a safe roped-off swimming area there are pedaloes to hire, petanque, mini golf and a children's play area with swings etc. Jean-Eugene Robert-Houdin known as the father of modern magic was born in Blois and his house is now a museum of magic and theatre where magic shows are performed.
Museums, galleries and culture
For art lovers the Musee de l'Objet at Blois with its contemporary art by Man Ray and Cesar amongst others will be of interest. If you prefer less modern art then the Musee des Beaux Arts in the Château de Blois has paintings from the sixteenth to nineteenth centuries.
Wine tasting
The Loire Valley is famous for its vineyards and wine production. The Caves Monmousseau and Caves de la Boule Blanche, both at Montrichard, offer tastings. The former has vast cellars and specializes in Touraine, Bourgueil, Chinon, Vouvray and Sancerre. The latter has 15 km of cellars where you can taste their sparkling wines as well as still.
Walking
The banks of the Loir and the Cher make very pleasant walking country. Two of the long-distance Grande Randonnee paths, the GR41 and the GR3C, run through the Sologne, an area of forests, lakes, ponds and marshes. There are numerous other well-signed paths in the area. If you are walking in the autumn during the hunting season, do not stray from the marked paths. There are also several areas of woodland near Blois, including the Foret de Blois, which make good walking terrain.
Golf
The course at Golf des Bordes is said to be the finest and toughest in France and is located in the heart of the Sologne forest. For beautiful surroundings, however, you cannot beat the 18 hole course at the Chateau de Cheverny. It is set in former royal hunting grounds and covers 100 acres. Look out for swans, heron and deer.
Other activities
The banks of the rivers Loir and Cher provide good cycling terrain and there are various places such as Montrichard which are safe for swimming. There is good fishing in the lakes and rivers and permits can be purchased from local shops and any of the tourist offices. Many of the towns, even the smaller ones, have tennis courts and boules. If you like horse riding the area's natural beauty makes riding particularly pleasurable. Horses can be hired at Les Ecuries de Saint Cyr. For something really different, try a hot–air balloon trip over the chateaux at Contres or Au gre des vents in Fontaines-en-Solgne.
Food and drink
The whole region is known as the garden of France because of its rich farmland and orchards. Asparagus and strawberries are particularly tasty although the local speciality of pureed lettuce is more of an acquired taste! As well as the usual meat and fish from the river such as salmon, bream and eels, there is also plenty of local game from the department's forests: venison, wild boar, pheasant and partridge. There is also a strongly flavoured local chicken, a geline, which is a regional speciality. In the autumn, truffles and mushrooms are plentiful. If you pick your own, be careful as some are poisonous. As for puddings, the famous upside down apple tart, Tarte Tatin, originates from the department as do the delicious Montargis pralines, caramel-covered grilled almonds which can also be used in cooking, especially with duck.
Ease of access
Most visitors bring their own car and the nearest ports are Caen or Le Havre, both of which are about 165 miles from Blois. Ryanair flies to Tours where you can hire a car, or if you prefer to travel by train you can take the Eurostar to Paris and get the high-speed train to Le Mans. Eurolines operates a coach service to Orleans and Le Mans.
Value for money
The Loir-et-Cher offers good value for money although entrance fees to the châteaux can add up to a significant sum especially if you are packing in as many as you can. Look out for Cartes Multi Visites which can work out to be a good bargain.
Summary
The Loir-et-Cher is an outstanding area of cultural interest with historic towns and villages, and beautiful châteaux along with a very pleasant climate. Although it will appeal most to those interested in culture, there are plenty other activities available as well, making it an ideal family destination.
