Introduction
Located in the northeast of the country, Meurthe-et-Moselle is by no means an obvious tourist destination but still stands as one of Lorraine's cultural hubs with some of the best sights the region has to offer.
Major cities
Meurthe-et-Moselle is hardly a ghost town, with a 1999 census recording the population at 713,779 across a land area of just 5,246 km². However, there is a strict division between the built-up, urbanized prefecture of Nancy, where the vast majority of inhabitants reside, and more provincial communes, the most important of which are:
- Briey
- Toul
- Lunéville
- Bouxières-aux-Dames
- Ludres
- Villiers-lès-Nancy
History
Meurthe-et-Moselle is immediately distinctive in that it was born from disaster. With France's crushing defeat at the hands of Prussia in 1871 came a settlement which slashed so much of the former Meurthe and Moselle departments that a merger became necessary. This relationship endured even after the Versailles Treaty rectified the borders in 1919, juxtaposing Meurthe-et-Moselle alongside Belgium and Luxembourg.
That said, the history of the territory stretches back much further, with human settlements in the vicinity of Nancy around the 8th century BC. Indeed, the department's current complexion is heavily influenced by the Lorraine province's time as part of the Holy Roman Empire. This surprisingly rich heritage, coupled with the department's modern significance as a centre of the Art Nouveau style in the late 19th century, is what makes Meurthe-et-Moselle one of France's hidden treasures.
Weather
Meurthe-et-Moselle enjoys a maritime climate with warm, but not hot, summers (despite the occasional heatwave) and relatively wet, chilly winters. Nancy is representative of average quarterly temperatures:
Average temperature in Nancy| Period | Celsius | Fahrenheit |
|---|
| January-March | 3 | 37 |
| April-June | 13 | 55 |
| July-September | 18 | 64 |
| October-December | 6 | 42 |
Tourist attractions
Nancy is the place to go for the best sights in Meurthe-et-Moselle. Proof of this can be found in the complex of the Place Stanislas, the Place d'Alliance and the Place de la Carrière. Although the aforementioned is cumulatively classified a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Place Stanislas is certainly the most beautiful, built between 1752 and 1755 as the brainchild of the-then Duke of Lorraine and King of Poland, Stanislaw Leszczyski. Forever linking the old and new towns, the square also regained its aesthetic value when a renovation project was completed in 2005, restoring the 18th century design and the 19th century statue of Stanislaw I at its centre. As such, it provides a fantastic backdrop for Nancy's cultural heart, containing the Town Hall, the Opéra Theâtre, an Arc de Triomphe and the Musée des Beaux-Arts.
The quality of Nancy's religious architecture is highlighted both by the 18th century Cathedral of Nancy and the 19th century Gothic Saint-Epvre Basilica (and the adjoining square). Other notable edifices include the École des Beaux-Arts de Nancy, a major centre for Art Nouveau in France under Émile Gallé, and the Craffe Gate, a remarkable gateway built in the 14th century and the largest remains of the old city walls. However, wherever you saunter in Nancy, you're bound to come face-to-face with something spectacular.
Outside of Nancy, Lunéville is a popular destination due to the Château de Lunéville, built between 1703 and 1720 by Duke Leopold and a former residence of Stanislaus I, and the 18th century Synagogue of Lunéville, the first in France since the 13th century. Toul is another option for sightseers, thanks to monuments like the Saint-Etienne Cathedral.
Family entertainment
Meurthe-et-Moselle isn't really a haven for children, with the list of activities and opportunities for days out somewhat limited. However, water-sports are one option, with canoeing, fishing and kayaking around Lunéville and the Nancy St-Georges Port.
Football lovers also have the chance to see Nancy's club, AS Nancy-Lorraine, who play their games in Ligue 1 at the Stade Marcel Picot.
Museums, galleries and culture
The aforementioned Musée des Beaux-Arts in Nancy is arguably the best museum to visit in the region. As well as exhibitions of glasswork and sculpture, it is home to an outstanding collection of French and European art from the 14th century to the present day, including pieces by such masters as Rubens, Caravaggio, Tintoretto, Picasso and Monet.
The Musée de l'École de Nancy is another place you have to visit, specialising in Art Nouveau glasswork, furniture and stained glass, which made the department famous. Other alternatives include Montaigu Castle, home to some fine 18th to 20th century paintings, and the Nancy Museum-Aquarium.
Of all the many municipal museums elsewhere in Meurthe-et-Moselle, the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire is the best, containing a melange of archaeology, ceramics and tapestries.
Shopping
Nancy is the best place for shoppers in the department, particularly around the old city centre and the train station. An outdoor market is held regularly in front of the Church of Saint-Sebastian, and a Sunday market can also be found at the Nancy St-Georges port.
The chief local craft in Meurthe-et-Moselle is faïence, a type of fine, tin-glazed earthenware pottery. Outside of Nancy, Lunéville is home to the best examples of this art. Try the areas around the Place Léopold for starters.
Walking
Meurthe-et-Moselle isn't fruitful ground for hikers but, at some 27 hectares, Nancy's Montet Botanical Garden is a beautiful location for those wanting a gentle stroll.
There are also a number of parks like the 50-acre Pépinière Park in Nancy and the 18th century Parc des Bosquets in Lunéville.
Golf
There are three main golf courses in Meurthe-et-Moselle. These are Golf Club d'Avrainville in Avrainville, Golf de Nancy in Liverdun and Golf de Nancy-Pulnoy in Pulnoy.
Wine-tasting
Meurthe-et-Moselle used to hold an extremely prosperous winemaking industry until phylloxera put an end to most of the vineyards in the late 19th century. Today, the last remaining vineyards around Toul have started to re-cultivate the region's reputation, providing a range of rosé, whites and pinot noirs.
Food and drink
The regional Lorraine cuisine is delicious, with specialities including the earthy Lorraine stew, quiche Lorraine and desserts like Nancy Chocolate Cake and rum babas (a type of fairy cake in rum). For the best choice of restaurants, Nancy is unsurprisingly the place to visit.
Ease of access
If travelling from outside France, the closest option is Metz-Nancy Lorraine Regional Airport, 28 miles from Nancy with a shuttle bus available thereafter. However, you may decide to be a little different and plump for Charles de Gaulle International Airport on Paris, which provides a far better choice of airlines, before taking the TGV high-speed rail line to Nancy (a journey time of roughly 3 hours).
Once inside Meurthe-et-Moselle, Nancy's Scott Mineo station connects the department and offers links to other major cities in France. If you're hiring a car, the A31 and A33 autoroutes around Nancy run through most other important communes.
Value for money
There is a wide range of accommodation available in the department, from hotels to gites and campsites. For example, see here for accommodation in Nancy. If you choose to stay in the prefecture though, expect higher prices than elsewhere, with the average for a double room per night in a hotel around 80 Euros. If you decide to look elsewhere, you have more chance of finding a bargain, as illustrated by the example of Pont-à-Mousson.
Summary
Not one of France's most popular departments for tourism, Meurthe-et-Moselle nevertheless ticks most of the boxes for holiday-goers and those looking to invest, with beautiful country scenery, excellent food and some of the finest monuments in Lorraine.
