Introduction
Located in the northeast of France and part of the Lorraine region, Moselle is a pleasant and thoroughly distinctive area of the country, coloured by its exceptional history.
Major cities
Moselle is made up of over 1 million inhabitants across a land area of 6,216km², with the largest city being the prefecture of Metz. However, there are a number of other significant cities in the department:
- Forbach
- Thionville
- Boulay-Moselle
- Sarrebourg
- Château-Salins
History
One of the original 83 departments established in March 1790 during the French Revolution, Moselle started life under exceptional circumstances, holding small segments of the mainly German Holy Roman Empire within its borders. This was followed by expansion into Austrian territory resulting from the Treaty of Paris in 1814, which accompanied Napoleon's first defeat. However, the department's fortunes changed with Waterloo, when the subsequent Treaty of Vienna in 1815 actually shrunk Moselle beyond its original size.
Further upheavals assailed Moselle with France's defeat to Prussia in 1871, as the resulting German annexation of four-fifths of its territory essentially dissolved the department. This would only change in 1919, when the remaining-fifth of Moselle was joined to a portion of Meurthe.
Both because of and despite the strong German influence on Moselle, the department today is fiercely patriotic, encouraged further by the second German annexation in June 1940. Nevertheless, the German dialect of Lorraine Franconian can still be heard in the department and the cross-pollination of culture is a great attraction for visitors.
Weather
Moselle enjoys a typical maritime climate which approximates the weather of southern England quite closely, with cooler summers than most of France and commensurately wet winters. Metz is typical of average temperatures during the year:
Average temperature in Metz| Period | Celsius | Fahrenheit |
|---|
| January-March | 4 | 39 |
| April-June | 13 | 55 |
| July-September | 18 | 64 |
| October-December | 7 | 44 |
Tourist attractions
Capital of the Lorraine region since the mid-20th century, Metz is also a suitable epicentre for Moselle, having passed through Roman, German and French hands during its history. The chief point of interest is the St. Etienne Cathedral. Built in the 14th century as a mixture of the old Roman church and the 13th century nave of Saint-Etienne, it now stands as one of the tallest churches in Europe at 118.3 metres and is also remarkable for its outstanding stained glass windows, partially designed by the Russian artist Marc Chagall.
Also representative of the enduring Roman legacy is the Church of St-Pierre-aux-Nonnains, the foundations of which were a Roman Gymnasium designed in the late 4th century. Redeveloped three centuries later, the building now holds the title of the oldest church in France. Elsewhere, the Germanic influence accrued from the brief period of annexation in the 19th century is palpable in both the Protestant Temple Neuf Church and the daunting Temple de Garnison.
Further evidence of the German annexation can be found in Thionville at the Fort de Guentrange. Once inside Thionville, a visit should be paid to the Church of Saint-Maximin, built between 1755 and 1759. La Tour aux Puces is also worth your time, built between the 11th and 12th centuries and the former home of the dukes of Luxembourg.
Elsewhere, the Château de Grands-Arnsberg in Baerenthal is a noteworthy monument, constructed in the 12th century and testifying to Moselle's connection to the Holy Roman Empire. In general though, Moselle's communes are home to plenty of pleasant and often stimulating sights.
Family entertainment
Theme parks are littered across the department, such as La Jungle de Doupi in Saint Julien-lès-Metz or Walygator Parc in Maizières-lès-Metz. Watersports are also extremely popular, with a number of aquariums and the chance to go water-skiing at Porte de Plaisance in Cattenom or diving at the Centre Nautique in Sarreguemines.
There are even opportunities for horse riding at facilities like the Centre Equestre des Trois Fontaines in Noveant sur Moselle.
Museums, galleries and culture
The Museums of the Cour d'Or in Metz are the chief repositories of high culture in the department. Contained within the complex is the Municipal Museum (specialising in local history), the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire and the Archaeological Museum.
Outside of Metz, Sarreguemines has an array of esoteric but impressive museums. The most obvious of these is the Musée de Sarreguemines, which specialises in ceramic art and contains the incredible Wintergarden of Paul de Geiger, a remarkable example of Art Nouveau style. Continuing the ceramic theme, the Moulin de la Blies Museum of Faience Techniques is not an obvious choice for visitors but is packed with information on this local craft.
There are a number of festivals and events in Moselle, including the Metz Music Festival between June and September and the Carnival of Sarreguemines. However, if you're looking to take in a show, there are few places better than the Arsenal Concert Hall, home to the famous Orchestre National de Lorraine.
Shopping
Metz is the premier spot for high street shopping in the department, with luxury goods stores around the rue Saint Marie. You can also find the Marques Avenue shopping mall outside the city in nearby Talange.
Moselle is awash with local crafts such as the faience pottery in Sarreguemines and, more specifically, the handmade Christmas decorations available at Meisenthal, so take your time and shop around.
Walking
Despite its large land area, Moselle is not exactly the best place for walkers. Sarreguemines is a good spot though, containing the Sarreguemines Faience Trail, the Buchholz Forest and Club Vosgien Mountain Walks.
Golf
Moselle is home to some 9 courses, with the average price being 40-50 Euros per person. Some of the most popular spots are Golf de Sarreguemines, Garden Golf at Metz Technopole and Golf 18 de Trous d'Amneville in Amneville les Thermes.
Food and drink
The best restaurants in Moselle are around Metz, especially on the rue du pont des Morts. Within the city, you can expect traditional French food but with local twists, for example fried fish from the River Moselle or German-inspired dishes like judd mat Gaardebohnen (pork with beans). There are a number of farm inns if you're looking for that extra rural flavour, particularly around Verneville.
Wine-tasting
The many vineyards found across the western banks of the River Moselle are an option for wine enthusiasts.
Ease of access
If travelling from abroad, reaching Moselle can be tricky. There are airports in Metz and Nancy but arguably the best option is Charles de Gaulle International Airport in Paris. A train can be taken from the capital direct to Metz thereafter, permitting a greater selection of airlines.
Once inside Moselle, the A4 and A31 roads are connected to much of the department and provide pathways to elsewhere in Europe. Indeed, Moselle aims to develop itself as a 'Euro-region' in the forthcoming years because of its borders.
Value for money
Moselle is not the most popular tourist destination and prices are subsequently very reasonable for accommodation. The department features a full range of campsites, hotels, apartments and gites. As an example, prices range from 70 to 180 Euros for a double room per night at a 3-star hotel.
Summary
Moselle does lack the glamour you might find in Paris, but it still has some charm which will appeal to visitors. Being generally very affordable, home to some fine points of interest and boasting a distinctive mix of cultures, you certainly won't regret visiting.
