Introduction
Located in the far north of France as part of Nord-Pas-de-Calais, Nord has been historically associated with industry. However, despite falling on hard times in recent years, it is a pleasant and sorely underrated location for visitors.
Major cities
Established as the most populous department in France, with approximately 2.6 million denizens across a land area of just 5,743 km², the majority of inhabitants can be found in the prefecture of Lille and a number of other significant communes:
- Cambrai
- Dunkirk
- Valenciennes
- Douai
- Avesnes-sur-Helpe
- Roubaix
History
One of the original 83 departments established in March 1790, Nord has enjoyed a colourful history, marked by Dutch influence. This extends back to the Roman period, when Saxon tribes stationed by the Empire during the 4th century established colonies. By the 8th century, many of the inhabitants actually spoke a form of Middle Dutch. The connection was further invigorated by Nord's absorption into the Spanish Netherlands during the Middle Ages. Indeed, the area was only ceded to France gradually over the course of the late 17th century. The passing centuries have seen the decline of the Dutch in Nord, but the aforementioned language of 'West Flemish' can still be heard today in the Dunkirk commune.
Sadly though, the tragedies of the 20th century have defined the contemporary department. The First World War wreaked turmoil on the landscape, devastating the major cities. The cultural losses were followed by economic decline, as the previously booming coal industry collapsed. As such, the department is still in a state of recovery. However, the 'poor but proud' motto of the Armentières commune gives a sense of the spirit of Nord and its enduring appeal to visitors.
Weather
Nord's climate can be best described as maritime. As a result, you can expect the cool, relatively wet winters and warm summers typical of other parts of northern France. The prefecture of Lille is representative of average temperatures:
Average temperature in Lille| Period | Celsius | Fahrenheit |
|---|
| January-March | 5 | 41 |
| April-June | 13 | 55 |
| July-September | 18 | 64 |
| October-December | 8 | 46 |
Tourist attractions
Visitors looking for beautiful sights often mistakenly ignore Nord when in reality the department's cultural pedigree is impressive. The small commune of Le Cateau-Cambrésis was actually the birthplace of Henri Matisse and Lille was named European capital of culture in 2004 precisely because of sights like La Vieille Bourse. Built in the mid-17th century with an adjoining bell tower, this edifice was once the city's commercial exchange and now stands as a remarkable testament to Flemish-style architecture.
Further proof of Lille's worth can be found in the Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-la-Treille. Reconstructed recently from the previous 18th century model, the current building contains a remarkably modern façade, while a sacred statue of the same name highlights the interior. Other points of interest include the early 19th century 'La Grand Déesse' fountain in the Place du Général-de-Gaulle, the 17th century Lille Citadelle and the exceptional medieval-style Palais Rihour.
Outside of Lille, one must-see monument is the Belfry in Douai. This Gothic-style bell tower was built in the late 14th century and stands at some 80 metres high. Roubaix is also home to some noteworthy sights, such as the 19th century neo-Gothic style Saint Joseph Church, which is listed as a French Historic Monument, and the Church of Saint Martin, built in 1848 and the oldest building in the city.
A trip to either Dunkirk or Hondschoote will make the Dutch influence on Nord quickly apparent. One overt example of this is the Hondschoote Windmill, recently restored in the 1990s from the 12th century original. However, wherever you decide to visit in Nord, you'll be surprised by the wealth of picturesque sights and panoramas.
Family entertainment
Lille is naturally the best place to visit for days out and family activities. Sports fans will be immediately drawn to the city's football team, Lille Olympique Sporting Club, who play in Ligue 1. Ironically though, the team's temporary home is the Stadium Lille-Metropole in nearby Villeneuve d'Ascq.
Nevertheless, you will find plenty of children-friendly activities in the city proper, such as the zoo in Avenue Mathias Delobel and a number of theme parks.
Lille is not the only option though. The Fun Farm in Roubaix, which offers horse riding amongst other things, and the many watersports opportunities in Dunkirk are just a few of the alternatives.
Museums, galleries and culture
Nord has some of the finest museums in the region, the majority of which are in Lille. The most prestigious of these is the exceptional Musée des Beaux-Arts, the second largest gallery in France behind Le Louvre; holding works by Goya, David and Donatello. La Musée d'Art Moderne stands as a compliment to the Beaux-Arts and is home to pieces by Modigliani and Picasso. The culture doesn't end there in Lille, as you can also explore the Museum of Natural History or take in one of the shows at the Zenith Grand Palais.
An area of historical significance in its own right for all fans of military history, Dunkirk hosts a number of decent museums, including its own Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Musée Portuaire (detailing the history of the Dunkirk port). Art also dominates Valenciennes, with the local Musée des Beaux-Arts including a remarkable collection of pieces by Flemish painters such as Rubens.
Whenever you visit Nord, you can guarantee there will be plenty of festivals and events underway. The La Braderie street fair in Lille, which takes place during September, is especially popular across the region, as is the Annual Carnival of Dunkirk.
Shopping
Lille is the shopping hub of Nord. The Euralille shopping centre is an obvious starting point, but the outlets around the Place du Général de Gaulle are also excellent. If it's fashion and other luxury goods you're after, try both the Grand Place and Vieux Lille.
Alternatively, the centre of Villeneuve d'Ascq is popular for local crafts, while the Fashion district of Roubaix is surprisingly good. Roubaix and Lille host a huge number of markets every week, guaranteeing some of the best local produce.
Walking
Villeneuve d'Ascq is the best place to go if you're a hiking enthusiast. The commune contains some 30 kilometres of footpaths, a number of nature parks such as Le Parc du Héron and, of particular importance, La Réserve Naturelle Volontaire du Héron.
Golf
Golf isn't exactly a way of life in Nord, but you can still find a few courses in the department, most notably at the Dunkirk Golf Club.
Food and drink
Being so close to the North Sea, seafood naturally features heavily on restaurant menus in Nord. Specialities include moules-frites (steamed mussels with chips), chicorée d'Orchies and desserts like gateaux Carpeaux and sottises de Valenciennes, both of which can be found mainly in Valenciennes.
The best restaurants for gourmet connoisseurs are in Lille, particularly around Vieux Lille and the Place Rihour.
Ease of access
Nord is well connected with the rest of Europe and France. If you're travelling from Britain, ferry services run from Dover to Dunkirk or you have the option of the Eurostar train line from London. Incorporated within Lille is Lesquin International Airport, linking Nord to other parts of the continent.
Once inside the department, Lille is the best starting point for travellers. The TGV rail network connects the city to Paris, as well as a number of other major cities like Marseille, Lyon and Toulouse. The Lille Metro system is also a popular method of getting. If you've rented a car, the key roads in the department are the A1, the A23 and the A25.
Value for money
Due to the department's lingering economic problems, there are plenty of hotels, campsites and apartments available in the main cities for reasonable prices. Hotel prices in Roubaix, for example, range from 29-99 Euros for a single room per night. However, expect price increases soon, with the French market pushing up property figures.
Summary
Ignored by many tourists as a stop-off point on the way to Paris, Nord is one of the most underrated departments in France. It may not have the world-famous sights of other areas, but there is still plenty of culture and activities to keep tourists interested. Take a trip and find out for yourself.
