Introduction
The only Normandy department to be totally land-locked, Orne is the home of fairy-tale castles, magnificent cathedrals, delicate lace, stud farms, and the village of Camembert, known throughout the world for its strong-smelling cheese!
The department is amongst the 20 least populated in the whole of France and - because of the claimed therapeutic properties of a spa (especially for those with varicose veins!) in the medieval town of Bagnoles - Orne has been on the tourist map for nearly 200 years.
History
Named after the 94 mile-long River Orne, which flows into the English Channel at Caen, Orne was one of the 83 original departments created in 1790 during the French Revolution. However, the region was first documented in the seventh century and, centuries later in 1047, the area gained further repute when Alençon (now the department's main town) fell under siege in 1047 by William, Duke of Normandy, later known as William the Conqueror.
The area is known for its lace production, but the fabric industry in general became an important part of the region's economy as early as 1650. Alençon, in particular, has also long been known as an important centre for the French printing industry.
In June 1940, the German army occupied the area, but in August 1944, Alençon became the first city in France to be liberated by the French army.
Major towns
- Alençon
- Argentan
- Domfront
- Mortagne
- Bagnoles-de-l'Orne
- Vimoutiers
- Fler
- Grace
Weather
Because it is land-locked and many miles to the coast from any part of the department, Orne is nicely protected from English Channel weather fronts. Winters are generally mild, with temperatures rarely dropping below freezing point. Snow is uncommon, but rain is certainly not, hence the abundance of lush farmland. However, the summer months can usually be relied upon - perhaps more than its fellow Normandy departments - to provide an adequate number of warm, sunny days to enjoy Orne's many outdoor attractions.
Average temperature in Orne| Period | Celsius | Fahrenheit |
|---|
| January-March | 7 | 44 |
| April-June | 16 | 61 |
| July-September | 21 | 70 |
| October-December | 11 | 51 |
Beaches
There are no seaside resorts within the department of Orne. The nearest are over the departmental "border" in Calvados or south west Manche, a minimum of an hour away. But those resorts can certainly make the journey very worthwhile. Meanwhile, north west of Orne are such glorious seaside towns as Granville, Jullouville and Carolles-Plage, nestling in the south west corner of Manche, close to Mont-Saint-Michel.
Tourist attractions
Alençon, the capital of Orne, is particularly renowned for its fine lace work, a craft which began in the seventeenth century. Naturally, the town exploits its reputation for excellence in needle craft and celebrates the industry with both the Museum of Fine Arts and Lace on Rue du Collège, and the Lace Museum at the other end of town on Rue du Pont Neuf. It is here that visitors can appreciate the complexity of lace making and why it can take up to 16 labour-intensive hours to make just half a square inch of the much sought-after product.
Bagnoles-de-l'Orne promotes itself as "the foremost thermal spa resort for the treatment of varicose veins". Set in beautiful surroundings and surrounded by forest, Bagnoles has been a favourite therapy resort since the early 1800s, when the spa was frequented by a Who's Who of European aristocracy. Even today, the spa at Bagnoles remains a major attraction. The temperature of the natural spring water is a constant 25 degrees and it is claimed that its unique properties are particularly effective for circulation problems and the prevention of varicose veins.
The village of Camembert, three miles south of Vimoutiers, is known throughout the world for its soft, flavoursome cheese. Tradition has it that Napoleon himself christened the cheese after being served with it by a farmer's wife in the Norman village. Little did he know what he was starting. Camembert cheese is now produced in dozens of departments throughout France and has grown into a multi-million pound industry. The history of Camembert production is chronicled at the Camembert Museum in Vimoutiers, which is open several days each week throughout the year.
The department of Orne is particularly proud of its stunning châteaux, many of which are open to the public. The magnificent Château of Carrouges, a short distance south of the medieval town of the same name, incorporates the different styles of the centuries. It was started in the 14th century, yet combines original medieval architecture with the elegance of the Renaissance style, added some several hundred years later. A guided tour of the brick and granite structure includes a visit to the Louis X1 Suite where, it is claimed, the King of France stayed in 1473. Other châteaux in the department which are well worth a visit include the imposing 18th century Sassy Château and the Bourg-Saint-Leonard Château, surrounded by a 1000-acre forest.
Family entertainment
Orne claims to be the breeding ground of champion horses and much of the department's heritage, entertainment and sporting activities revolve around equestrian life. There are at least 30 equestrian centres in Orne offering horse and pony riding facilities for all levels of experience and skill. There are also around 4000 kilometres of tracks and bridle paths which pass through some of northern France's most beautiful countryside.
For the more serious, there are racecourses and many stud farms, including the Pin National Stud Farm which attracts buyers from around the world. Pin Stud Farm is regarded as a symbol of French excellence in horse breeding and enjoys a long-established reputation for reproducing future generations of champions. It is open to the public throughout the year and provides both guided tours and cultural events.
It may not be anywhere near the sea, but Orne is a favourite department amongst anglers. With over 4000 kilometres of rivers and 500 acres of lakes and reservoirs, experienced or novice anglers can enjoy the comfort of purpose-built sites or the wilds of the countryside whilst fishing for the plentiful rainbow trout, grayling, perch and carp.
Food and drink
The department is known for its gastronomy and even has its own "Orne Terroirs" product label which guarantees that produce comes from a local farm or manufacturer where traditional methods have been used. Food ranges carrying the label vary considerably - from meats and black puddings from Mortagne, to chocolate, jams and biscuits from specialist cottage industries. Throughout the year, there are different festivals to celebrate particular harvests, whether for apples, pears or even mushrooms. And, of course, Orne is famous for its dairy products - none being more famous than Camembert.
Apart from sharing the production of Calva apple brandy with other Normandy departments, Orne is also known for its Pommeau de Normandie and Poire de Domfront, alcoholic beverages made respectively from locally-grown apples and pears.
Ease of access
Although Orne has no ferry ports or international airports to call its own, the department is within easy travelling distance to both. Alençon, for example, is 70 miles from the port of Caen for regular year-round ferries to Portsmouth, 103 miles from Le Havre (Portsmouth & Newhaven), 112 miles from St Malo (Channel Islands and several south coast English ports), and 138 miles from Cherbourg (Portsmouth, Poole and Southern Ireland). Orne is also close enough to Paris for visitors to take full advantage of regular scheduled flights to more or less every country in the world from Charles de Gaulle International Airport or Paris-Orly Airport.
Value for money
Orne is particularly popular with those who enjoy a rural or outdoor activity holiday, and offers a huge choice of accommodation suitable for all budgets - from low-cost family fortnights to gastronomic château breaks. Because it has no premium price seaside accommodation to offer, the average rental in Orne can be slightly cheaper than surrounding departments, making up for the extra time and fuel required to reach the department from a ferry port.
Summary
For those who yearn for a tranquil holiday in wonderful rural surroundings, the department of Orne is the ideal location, without having to travel too far south. It can also provide some of the best purpose-build and natural facilities for specialist holidays. It also offers a relaxed choice of cultural pastimes and culinary pleasures. However, in such a rural environment, the peacefulness of the department shines through as its great virtue and it is this quality which brings visitors.
