Named after the Saône and Loire rivers which permeate the department, Saône-et-Loire is located in the centre-east of France and part of the Bourgogne region. The area enjoys a niche appeal with tourists and its prosperous vineyards compensate for the relative lack of spectacular sights.
Major cities
Saône-et-Loire is one of the largest departments in France, with the population sprawled across a land area of 8,575km². The largest city is Chalon-sur-Saône but the prefecture of the department is Mâcon. Other important communes include the following:
- Autun
- Charolles
- Louhans
- Cluny
- Le Creusot
- Gueugnon
- Montceau-les-Mines
- Paray-le-Monial
- Romanèche Thorins
History
One of the 83 original departments established in March 1790 during the French Revolution, the territory's history is far more substantial, being a mixture of lands from the historic regions of Burgundy and Bresse. For example, recorded human activity in Mâcon stretches back to the 2nd century BC and many of today's towns derive (and exhibit) their heritage from the Roman Empire, most notably Autun. Moreover, the department as a whole prospered during the Middle Ages due to Mâcon's situation on the border with the Holy Roman Empire and France.
Saône-et-Loire's culture has historically been somewhat ambiguous. Despite its ties with France, areas of the territory spent periods in foreign hands, one example being Charolles' absorption into the Holy Roman Empire in the 14th and 15th centuries followed by a period of Spanish control. However, the loyalty to France in the 20th century is without doubt, with the department a major centre for the French Resistance during World War II. Furthermore, the Saône-et-Loire of today is renowned for French values such as fine food and great wine, and these continue to draw visitors today.
Weather
Saône-et-Loire's climate is pseudo-continental, with pleasant, warm (but not hot) summers countered by calm, relatively dry winters. Mâcon is representative of average quarterly temperatures:
Average temperature in Mâcon | Period | Celsius | Fahrenheit |
| January-March | 5 | 41 |
| April-June | 15 | 59 |
| July-September | 19 | 66 |
| October-December | 7 | 44 |
Tourist attractions
Although lacking the renown of other departments, there are some fine monuments in Saône-et-Loire for visitors to enjoy. Many of these are in Mâcon, such as the Renaissance-style Saint-Pierre Cathedral, the remains of the 6th century Cathedral of Old Saint-Vincent and the 13th century Berzé-Le-Châtel, a fabulous feudal castle. Particularly pertinent for those interested in the city's history is the Saint Laurent Bridge, built over the course of the 11th century and the main conduit for trade between France and the Holy Roman Empire.
Religious architecture features heavily in most of the department's communes, for example the Cathedral of Saint-Vincent in Chalon-sur-Saône, originally built in the 8th century but now standing in 19th century neo-classical style. Another fine example is the Cathedral of Saint-Lazare in Autun, completed in the 12th century according to a Romanesque design but with Gothic additions in the 15th century. Both the façade and the interior are topped off by fantastic Romanesque paintings and sculptures by Gislebertus. However, Autun is generally more regarded for the many ruins pointing to its past as Augustodunum, which include a huge amphitheatre, the Temple of Janus and the Porte St-André and Porte d'Arroux (the old city gates).
Perhaps the most famous sight in the department is Cluny Abbey. Founded in 909 AD, the Abbey practically created the commune of the same name and was a major symbol of monasticism in the Middle Ages, particularly between the 10th and 12th centuries. Indeed, the addition of many beautiful churches made the Abbey the largest building in Europe in the 11th century, lasting until the 16th century reconstruction of St. Peter's in Rome. The Abbey also housed one of the most important libraries in Europe until it was sacked by the Huguenots in the 16th century Religious Wars. However, even today, the Abbey stands as a profoundly important monument and a statement of the history contained within Saône-et-Loire.
Family entertainment
There is a range of activities available to families, with a variety of watersports possible either in Autun's Plan d'eau du Vallon or the Port de Plaisance in Mâcon. There are also a number of leisure and theme parks such as Parc des Combes in Le Creusot, which contains a rollercoaster and karting opportunities, and Touroparc in Romanèche Thorins, home to a zoo and many other attractions.
Museums, galleries and culture
Saône-et-Loire isn't exactly bursting with great cultural repositories but there are a few noteworthy regional museums. These are predominantly in Mâcon, such as Ursulines Museum, containing collections of archaeology, ethnography and art from the region, and Lamartine Museum, looking at the life of the 19th century poet and politician Lamartine. Autun is also a decent spot, being home to the Rolin Museum, which specialises predominantly in Gallo-Roman sculpture.
Regarded as the home of photography, Chalon-sur-Saône hosts the Denon and Niepce Museums, celebrating the development of photography arguably the best museums in the department.
There are a number of festivals and events held throughout the year, the most notable being 'Chalon dans la Rue' in Chalon-sur-Saône, a nationally recognised street-fair, held in July.
Shopping
The communes of Chalon-sur-Saône, Mâcon and Louhans are the best for high-street shopping. There are also a number of markets, one of the most popular taking place on Fridays and Sundays in Chalon-sur-Saône.
Walking
Saône-et-Loire isn't exactly brilliant for hiking, but there are a number of paths in Mâcon such as 'the Tower footpath' and 'the pine trees' path. See the tourist office in the place Saint-Pierre for more details.
There are many parks and gardens in the department as well, such as Parc des Combes in Le Creusot and Parc Nord in Mâcon.
Golf
There are six courses in Saône-et-Loire, including Golf de Mâcon-la-Salle in La Salle, Golf d'Autun and Golf Public de Chalon-sur-Saône in Chatenoy-en-Bresse.
Wine-tasting
Formerly part of Burgundy, Saône-et-Loire has a history of wine-making which endures today. The department hosts the Concours des Grand Vins de France contest in Mâcon, the oldest of its kind in the country, and many vineyards such as Hameau du Vin provide guided tours and exhibit their goods.
Notable regions include the Cote chalonnaise in Chalon-sur-Saône, the 5000 hectares of vineyards around Mâcon and the area surrounding Tournus. They produce a fine range from the pinot noir, chardonnay, gamay and pinot blanc grapes, with famous crus such as Saint-Véran, Pouilly, Fuissé and Juliénas.
Food and drink
The restaurants of Saône-et-Loire naturally specialise in regional trademark dishes such as coq au vin, beef bourguignon and potée bourguignonne (a type of soup). The best areas to eat out are Mâcon, Chalon-sur-Saône and Autun.
Ease of access
If you're travelling from outside France, there are a number of airports in the department such as Mâcon-Charnay Airport and Chalon-Champforgeuil Airport. However, one alternative route is to arrive at Charles de Gaulle International Airport in Paris, take the TGV high-speed line to Dijon and then take a train to Saône-et-Loire.
Once inside the department, there is a decent train network which joins up most of the main communes, and the terrain is good for driving if you decide to rent a car.
Value for money
Prices in Saône-et-Loire are generally rather reasonable, due to the relatively small tourist industry. This is reflected in the prices for accommodation, with a double room in a 3-star hotel per night in Mâcon costing on average 70 to 80 Euros. There are also a range of campsites, bed and breakfasts and gites available.
Another option is Autun, where prices are even cheaper, being around 50 Euros for an equivalent room.
Summary
By no means the most spectacular or illustrious spot in France, Saône-et-Loire does hold a certain, rarefied appeal to tourists due to its excellent wines and the many activities on offer, sporting or otherwise. Therefore, if you're looking for a quieter, more economical stay in France, Saône-et-Loire may just be for you.
