Introduction
Of the five departments in Normandy, Seine-Maritime probably offers the most varied scenery. This triangle-shaped wedge of northern France boasts a spectacular coastline - from soaring chalk cliffs, often eccentrically shaped by thousands of years of pounding waves, to miles of flat pebble and sand beaches. Inland, the rolling countryside is made up of cereal fields, lush green pastures and miles of woodland which has been left to nature. All this is punctuated by imposing marketing towns and picturesque half-timbered villages.
The department also has a rich culture and a history which helped shape the whole of France as we know it today. The towns of Rouen - straddling the banks of the mighty River Seine half way been Paris and the English Channel - and Dieppe, known for its elegance and its unique position as a natural harbour town, attract hundreds of thousands of visitors throughout the year.
History
Seine-Maritime brings to life the school history textbook: Dieppe with its own history of regular invasions by the British, fighting the French to capture the port; its major role in transporting some of Canada's earliest French immigrants; its prosperity during the 17th century thanks to the Indian and African ivory trade; and, of course, its strategic role during World War Two. Rouen also has its own colourful history. Best known as the town where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in 1431 and subsequently became a national heroine and the patron saint of France, Rouen has a legacy dating back to Roman times when it was known as Rotomagus. During the Reformation, Rouen was an important centre of Protestantism, and during the 19th century, the town developed its major textile manufacturing industry. During both the Franco-Prussian War (1870/71) and World War Two, Rouen was occupied by the Germans and suffered major destruction. Today Rouen is the thriving and elegant administrative capital of the department.
Major towns
- Rouen
- Le Havre
- Etretat
- Fécamp
- Dieppe
Weather
Seine-Maritime lies less than 60 miles south of England. The department's weather is therefore more like that of the southern counties of Britain than Provence. Winters are cool but not harsh, with temperatures rarely dropping to freezing point. Wind-chill, directly from the English Channel, makes the coastal areas of department feel colder than further inland. Although snow may be a rarity, rain - and lots of it - is certainly not. Generally it is cool, wet and windy in the winter, and pleasantly warm, if not slightly breezy, during the summer months. June, July, August and September can usually be relied upon to provide a more than adequate number of days to enjoy the department's glorious beaches.
Average temperature in Seine-Maritime (Celsius)| Period | Celsius | Fahrenheit |
|---|
| January-March | 8 | 46 |
| April-June | 16 | 31 |
| July-September | 21 | 70 |
| October-December | 11 | 52 |
Beaches
The department's coastline is dramatic - ranging from glorious and often deserted beaches to lofty cliffs and unusual rock formations. The 40-mile strength between Dieppe and Fécamp is known as the Alabaster Coast because of its chalk cliffs which reach up to 250 feet in places.
Dieppe itself claims to be the oldest seaside resort in France. Its long sand and pebble beach is a few minutes' walk from the bustling town centre and adjacent to the port where a large fleet of fishing and pleasure boats add colour and interest.
Saint-Valéry-en-Caux is a pretty fishing village which, during the past few decades has established itself as a popular beach and yachting resort amongst both English and French visitors alike. Fécamp is popular with tourists as a busy and colourful fishing harbour, yet has disappointing beach facilities. But the jewel in the department's coastal crown must be Etretat where the small pebble beach is totally overshadowed and overwhelmed by magnificent white cliffs which rise to almost 300 feet. For the energetic, steep steps have been carved into the chalk to allow visitors unrivalled views from the top once they have recovered from the climb!
Tourist sites
Rouen and Dieppe both offer excellent shopping facilities, colourful markets, a vast choice of eating and drinking establishments, a wide range of cultural activities, galleries and museums, and some of France's most interesting and varied architecture. Naturally Rouen exploits its famous connection with Joan of Arc and tourists are drawn to the Tour Jeanne d'Arc where the patron saint was imprisoned prior to her execution. But the town has much more to offer the visitor, not least the Museum of Fine Arts and Ceramics which contains a renowned and priceless collection of glazed earthenware and porcelain for which Rouen was famous during the 16th to 18th centuries.
One of the most popular half-day trips is a visit to The Benedictine Palace, at the foot of the chalk cliffs in Fécamp. It is here that the famous Benedictine liqueur - originally brewed by monks as a medicinal potion some 600 years ago - is still made from its 27 herbal ingredients. The distillery is open to the public for several hours each day, and a museum recounts the history of the liqueur from the day that local Benedictine monk, Brother Bernardo Vincelli, hit upon his winning formula. Visitors are also allowed into the basement storerooms of the Palace where the liqueur is matured in barrels.
Family entertainment and sports
With around 100 miles of dramatic coastline, dotted along the way with pretty little seaside resorts, major market towns, fishing villages and stunning cliff-top pathways, the department is an ideal destination for those who enjoy the outdoor life. The Green Way - a tourist trail which follows the routes of former railway lines - takes walkers, cyclists and horse-riders through some breathtaking scenery. For sports enthusiasts, there is very little that isn't catered for. The department's many rivers - including the Seine - mean that angling, canoeing and kayaking are everyday activities, whilst hang-gliding, hot-air ballooning and gliding are equally available to those who enjoy looking down from above! Golfers are also well catered for, with a choice of at least seven courses in the department - some of which offer stunning views over the sea.
For the more culturally inclined, museums, galleries, and châteaux explore all ages of history from Joan of Arc to World War Two. Another favourite attraction for the whole family are the region's specialist markets, selling everything from week-old piglets to some of the country's finest liqueurs, pastries and dairy products.
Food and drink
Seine-Maritime shares many of its gastronomic specialities with other departments of Normandy. The whole region is particularly famous for its rich dairy products, seafood and apples. From the apples comes the region's best-known dessert, Tarte Normande, together with several alcoholic accompaniments - cider, pommeau and Calvados brandy. For seafood enthusiasts, nothing rivals the department's special recipe for mussels in a cream and white wine sauce. Rouen is particularly famous for its dishes which involve duck - duck with apples, duck with cherries, stuffed duck in red wine... the variants are seemingly endless. And, of course, to round off a wonderful meal, there is the locally-produced Benedictine liqueur.
Ease of access
The department of Seine-Maritime has the luxury of having two ferry ports - Le Havre from where ferry operators LD Lines have regular sailings to Portsmouth and Newhaven (new for 2007), and Dieppe, which offers year-round sailings to Newhaven. Formerly operated by Transmanche, the Dieppe route has now been taken over by LD Lines. For those who prefer a shorter sea crossing and a longer drive, Calais and Boulogne can be easily reached within a couple of hours by motorway. Beauvais Airport is just 50 miles from Rouen, and the two main Paris airports are about two hours' drive away.
Value for money
Seine-Maritime can cater for all types of holiday - from budget family fortnights near the beach to luxury châteaux breaks in wonderful rural countryside, and everything in between. As with most destinations, the nearer the accommodation is to the coast, the more expensive it becomes. The department offers a very wide selection of traditional and character accommodation and, in the main, rental costs are cheaper than similar properties in neighbouring Brittany. Having its own ferry ports certainly cuts down on onward fuel costs and visitors to Seine-Maritime also benefit from some very reasonable ferry fares compared with other Western Channel routes.
Summary
The department of Seine-Maritime can offer something for every age group - from a huge range of beach, sports and countryside pursuits to a hectic timetable of cultural pastimes, historic visits and culinary pleasures. If the rugged coastline and lush countryside become too tranquil for the visiting townie, then the conurbations of Rouen and Dieppe should satisfy the most ardent city-dweller!
