Introduction
Located in the southwest of the country as part of the Midi-Pyrénées region, Tarn is a developing department with a rapidly expanding tourist trade due to its natural beauty and excellent climate.
Major cities
Although Tarn's land area is a substantial 5,758km², the rough terrain, largely due to by the mountains of Lacaune, Sidobre and the Montagne Noire in the south-east, has limited population growth, with just 343,402 inhabitants recorded in a 1999 census. The largest city is the prefecture of Albi, but there are a number of other significant communes:
- Castres
- Gaillac
- Lavaur
- Mazamet
- Cordes-sur-Ciel
- Burlats
History
One of the original 83 departments established in March 1790 during the French Revolution, Tarn was formed from portions of the Languedoc province and has spent most of its history in the shadow of neighbouring Haute-Garonne. Despite prosperity during the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century, the legacy of the textile industry's decline endures today and much of Tarn is still recovering. However, this should not put off visitors. Crossed by the rivers, Agotit, Thore and Tarn (from whence the department takes its name) and home to all manner of fruitful valleys and forests, Tarn is blessed with outstanding scenery. Furthermore, as the birthplace of the painter Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, the department is surprisingly rich in culture, making it one of the most underrated destinations in France.
Weather
Tarn's climate can be best described as pseudo-Mediterranean, with superb summers and mild winters. Albi is representative of average quarterly temperatures:
Average temperature in Albi| Period | Celsius | Fahrenheit |
|---|
| January-March | 7 | 45 |
| April-June | 16 | 61 |
| July-September | 21 | 70 |
| October-December | 10 | 50 |
Tourist attractions
The architecture of Albi, marked by the distinctive red Languedoc bricks, is one of the chief reasons for visiting Tarn. Built between 1282 and 1480 in Southern Gothic style, there is no better example than the Sainte Cécile Cathedral. Immediately remarkable as one of the largest brick buildings in the world, with the 15th century 78 metre tall bell tower topping it off, the otherwise reserved façade hides a phenomenal interior. Once you cross the 14th century Dominique de Florence doorway, you won't be able to miss the beautiful 15th century fresco of the Last Judgement or the Gothic roodscreen composed of some 200 statues. Such sights make the Cathedral a must-see monument.
Within the generally spectacular old town of Albi, the Palais de la Berbie is another highlight. Constructed in the 13th century, it now stands as one of the oldest castles in France, highlighted by its mightily impressive Renaissance wing.
Outside of Albi, Castres is an obvious port of call. Built between the 17th and 18th centuries and once the commune cathedral, the Church of Saint Benoît has lost none of its beauty with time. Similarly, the Hôtel de Nayrac testifies to the general quality of the architecture, being one of many Renaissance mansions built in the 16th and 17th centuries.
Especially popular with tourists due to its 13th and 14th century Gothic mansions, the fortified town of Cordes-sur-Ciel is another area worth visiting. The 14th century Maison du Grand Veneur, the 13th century Maison Carrie-Boyer and the Maison du Grand Fauconnier are just a few of the reasons why. However, whether you go to Lavaur to see the 13th century Cathedral of Saint-Alain de Lavaurr and its exceptional octagonal bell tower, or to Monestiés to gaze at the Saint-Jacques Chapel, you're guaranteed some remarkable sights in Tarn.
Family entertainment
Sporting opportunities are rife in the department. If you're the spectator-type, Castres' local rugby union team, Castres Olympique, play their games in the Top 14 (France's premier division) at the Stade Pierre Antoine. However, there are plenty of alternatives like canyoning at Cordes-sur-Ciel or tennis at Albi.
Water-sports are also strongly represented, such as fishing in Albi's 2000 kilometres of watercourses or Le Garissou Aquatic Leisure Park in Cordes-sur-Ciel.
Museums, galleries and culture
You are generally spoilt for choice in Tarn as far as museums go. That said, perhaps the best of these is the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum in Albi. As of February 2007, the museum is being renovated but the collection is still open to visitors and is composed of Ancient and Modern Art sections (including works by Francesco Guardi), as well as the largest public collection of pieces by Toulouse-Lautrec in the world.
The other premier gallery in the department is Castres' Goya Museum. Contained within the old 17th century Bishop's Palace, the Museum itself was established in 1840 and holds a huge collection of works by Spanish artists like Diego Velázquez. However, most of the major communes will have a municipal gallery, such as Gaillac's Musée des Beaux-Arts.
The museums in the area often touch on serious themes, such as the Musée Jean-Jaurès in Castres, located in the Hôtel de Nayrac and focusing on the life of the famous socialist and pacifist (who was born in Castres). Nevertheless, you will find a few quirky alternatives, like the Museum of Sugar and Chocolate in Cordes-sur-Ciel (where local history and other themes are tackled with pieces composed entirely from sugar and chocolate) and the Waxworks Museum in Albi.
Shopping
You're not going to find many luxury boutiques in Tarn, but the local markets are packed with local produce and crafts. Both the outdoor market in Cordes-sur-Ciel and the Saturday market in Castres are very popular. However, the markets held throughout the week in Albi at the Place Lapérouse, the Place F. Pelloutier, the Rue Mariès and the Boulevard de Strasbourg are also worth checking out.
Walking
As far as signposted trails go, there are surprisingly few obvious choices for hikers in Tarn. Walks through the old town of Albi, through the Grésigne and Sivens Forests and along the banks of the Tarn are popular options, but perhaps the best location for hikers is Cordes-sur-Ciel, home to the Circuit de la Chapelle Sainte Lucie. Ask at the Tourist Office in the Place Jeanne Ramel Cals for more information.
Should you visit the 17th century Bishop's Palace in Castres (now the city hall), you must make time for the gardens, designed by André Le Nôtre (responsible for the gardens at Versailles).
Wine-tasting
Gaillac is the best place for wine lovers in Tarn, hosting some of the oldest vineyards in France, stretching back to the 10th century. Famous wines include the Duras and Braucal red and the Mauzac white.
Golf
There are some five courses in Tarn. These are Golf d'Albi Lasbordes in Albi, Golf de Castres-Gourjade in Castres, Golf de Florentin-Gaillac in Marssac-sur-Tarn, Golf de Fiac in Fiac and Golf de Mazamet-La Barouge in Mazamet.
Food and drink
The regional cuisine which dominates the menus of Tarn's restaurants is one of the best around. Expect to find dishes like cassoulet (bean and meat strew), foie gras, magret de canard (duck) and rissoules, as well as desserts such as le Pavé du Quercy (a type of gateaux).
Ease of access
Tarn does have its own airport, Castres-Mazamet Airport in Castres, but the best option for visitors outside France is Toulouse Blagnac International Airport. A connecting train or bus can be taken to Albi and the airport has connections to London-Gatwick via Thomas Cook Airlines and easyJet.
The mountainous terrain of Tarn makes transport slightly problematic and certain communes are rather secluded. To facilitate travel, the council have set up the TarnBus service, which can be used by visitors.
Value for money
Prices in the Midi-Pyrénées are very much on the increase. Tarn is one of the few places where bargains can be found, but cities like Albi are also beginning to see prices rise as the tourist trade flourishes. That said, you will still find a range of hotels, bed and breakfasts and campsites available, especially in Albi.
Summary
Tourists are gradually waking up to the appeal of Tarn, and the time to visit is definitely now. If you want an alternative to the busy Haute-Garonne with the same weather, great countryside and interesting sights, Tarn is the place for you.
